(What they don't tell you)
Needless to say, having a Foundation Licence is like having a set of L-PLATES and you can now begin learning in earnest. So what I was hoping to do in this post (which may end up being quite long) is fill you in with all the everyday practical stuff which I had to learn in the months following my pass. It seems crazy to me that the Entry-Level licensee is free to operate with such limited 'real world' knowledge.
For example, I had to demonstrate the use and understanding of Morse Code (which included receiving and sending messages (albeit at super slow speed)) and yet I didn't need to know how to solder a PL-259 to the end of my coax-lead. Really???
So let's get on with it. Below is a list of the subjects that I wish I'd had some guidance on as part of the training course. I'll try to cover each one of these by either writing about it myself or by linking you to websites, blogs and videos that I found to be really useful.
- Choosing a radio
- Power Supplies
- Code Of Conduct
- How to solder
- Fitting PL-259 connectors
- Taking SWR readings
- Installing an RF Ground
- Choosing suitable antennas
- Installing an Antenna Switch
- Installing an ATU
- Keeping a Log
- QSL Cards /eQSL
- Using Digital Data Modes (eg. FT8)
- Using Digital Voice Modes (eg. DSTAR)
- Using Dongles/HotSpots
- Useful Software
- Programming Repeaters
Here's a list of the radio equipment that I either own or have owned. If you have any specific questions or queries about any of them, post a comment and I'll respond....
* EXPERT ELECTRONICS MB1
* YAESU FT-897D
* ELAD DUO-ART
* SDRPLAY RSP1A
* TECSUN PL-680
* LDG Z-100+ ATU
* LDG Z-817 ATU
* MFJ 993B ATU
* AOR AR-3000A
* UNIDEN UBC125XLT
For some people, HAM RADIO is just a bit of a hobby - maybe one of many hobbies and not really something that they'll be getting too obsessed over. For others, it's a dream hobby that they've always fancied being involved in but just never had the time to do until now. Personally, I've been a ShortWave Listener for many, many years and becoming a licensed HAM is a big deal to me. So depending on which category you fall into (and depending on your disposable income), you have to choose which radio equipment is best for you.
Many will be happy with a cheap little 2/70 Baofeng handie and may never proceed further than that. Some will be outdoor-types and want a compact HF system and some will want it all - a shack-in-a-box!
Although some people frown at 'shack-in-a-box' radios, it's usually those operators who have been in the hobby for years and have 'refined' their listening choices (and got the money for multiple rigs). For newbies, they are a fabulous way to have a dabble on all bands, in all modes.
If you're looking at secondhand radios, there's all sorts out there to choose from like the FT-817/818, FT-847, FT-857D, FT-897D, IC-706, TS-2000, etc, etc, but on the new market there are about four really good models worth considering as a novice...
1) YAESU FT-818ND
2) ICOM IC-7100
3) YAESU FT-991A
4) ICOM IC-705
The FT-818 is a super compact radio which you can take with you anywhere and operate on batteries, on all bands and all modes at 6W. You can also use it back home in the shack (with an amplifier if you upgrade your licence later).
The IC-7100 is a compact mobile radio, very suitable for use in the car or at home. The separate head unit is an absolute joy to use. Again, all bands, all modes and 100W. It also has DSTAR capability. It has remote-operation capability. Such a great radio!
The FT-991A is similar to the 7100 with 100W output, but has C4FM instead of DSTAR. It also has the advantage of a built-in ATU and full colour touch-screen. But it has very limited Wires-X connectivity.
The IC-705 is a compact, high-tech, full SDR QRP radio with a full colour touchscreen, panadapter and waterfall. It's all band, all mode and includes DSTAR. It's 5W on battery power and 10W when powered with a PSU. A magnificent all-rounder!
DON'T RUSH INTO ANYTHING and don't take the advice of any one individual. For example, someone might encourage you to get an FT-450, saying they're the perfect radio for beginners - and they are! But they're HF only, so you won't be able to play with your mates on the 2m nets. And all those repeaters in your area will be wasted unless you buy a second radio to use VHF/UHF. And forget DSTAR/C4FM if you only have a HF rig because there's relatively limited digital activity on the HF bands.
Spend time trying to figure out what sort of radio(s) will suit you. Join a radio-club (or two) and have a play with their shack radios. Get multiple opinions and try to identify those advisors who wear blinkers (eg. those who strongly dislike digital or those who are staunch advocates of one particular brand).
If money isn't an issue, then you might prefer to go for two radios to keep your HF interests separate from your VHF/UHF such as an IC-7300 & IC-9700. There's all sorts of options open to you and I only encourage newbies to get a shack-in-a-box because it gives you everything you need in one neat package and let's you get on with building your operating skills.
Just remember to leave enough money in your budget to buy the very best antenna that you can afford (and are able to install at your home QTH). More on this later.
When you've chosen a radio, you'll need to also buy a Power Supply (PSU) if you want to use the radio from the mains supply at home. The vast majority of radios expect a 13.8V feed.
PSU's are usually categorised into two main groups - linear or switched and then by subgroups (amperage 3A, 5A, 7A, 12A, 25A, etc, etc). First of all, don't worry too much about whether to buy switched or linear - all the old boys will tell you to buy a linear supply, but the truth is, switched-amps perform much better than they did years ago and the vast majority of affordable PSU's on the market are switched!
With regard to amperage, you might only need a low current PSU with your 10W licence limitation, but it really does make sense to buy a much beefier supply so that it's future-proof. If you buy a 30A peak PSU, you can connect your radio to it along with a host of other shack components without worrying about overloading it.
And just in case you've not started your course yet and don't know the very basics, NO your little 10W radio won't be damaged by connecting it to a 30 Amp power-supply! Your radio will only draw whatever current it needs to operate.
When calling CQ on a dedicated Calling Frequency such as 145.500MHz, keep your call brief and to the point. There's one operator local to me who annoys the hell out of everyone with his ridiculously looooong CQ call. He occupies the calling frequency with his monotonous drone for so long, repeating the same thing over and over, that no one will talk to him! Don't be him!
Calling CQ on a random HF frequency is a different thing altogether. You can transmit a prolonged CQ Call there with no fear of annoying anyone and it will increase your chances of being heard or being seen on someone's waterfall display.
Because you are a QRP operator (by default), you would do well to learn which frequencies are designated as the "Centre Of Activity" for QRP and try to use them for calling CQ.
160M - 1910 kHz
80M - 3690 kHz
40M - 7090 kHz
20M - 14285 kHz
17M - 18130 kHz
15M - 21285 kHz
12M - 24950 kHz
10M - 28365 kHz
6M - 50185 kHz
2M - 144285 kHz
Sadly, you will sometimes find European QRO operators occupying the QRP frequencies which is annoying when you can see that adjacent frequencies are empty 😡
I strongly suggest that you download and read this >>> DOCUMENT <<< and stick to the guidelines - even when others around you aren't. I recommend that you print the document and have a good read through it when you've got some 'quiet time'.
And if you hear someone on-air who's purposely acting like an idiot, repeatedly keying-up or swearing, etc, etc, please please please totally ignore them!!! The second that you respond is the second that they have got the attention that they're seeking.
Be proud to call yourself a "Good Operator" 😊
Anyway, you definitely need to learn how to do it and please make sure that you get someone who really knows how to solder to give you a tutorial. There are so many people out there who think they can solder who really do a bad job.
Buy a soldering iron but don't think you need a great big 100W model 😀 you don't! A 25W iron is more than sufficient for most jobs in a shack environment - even less will usually suffice. My own soldering iron (shown in the photo above) cost me £7 at a Rally. When choosing one, look for a smallish tip (and maybe get one pointed and one chisel-edge tip).
DO NOT try to save money on cheap solder from the £SHOP. And don't buy thick solder - you're not a plumber! I strongly recommend the stuff shown below. It's about £14 on Amazon UK but it'll last you months!
Multicore M7 Ersin 5 Core Solder 60/40 0.7mm diameter
And while you're at it, order one of these wire solder-tip cleaning balls and some flux.
If you can't find someone to teach you how to solder, watch a few videos on YouTube - there's loads of them - but make sure you watch professionals and not some vlogger who thinks he can solder. Here's some to get you going...
So you now need to learn how to clean up the tip and re-tin it so that it looks all nice and shiny again. If you clean your tip and re-tin it at the end of each soldering session, it's an extremely easy and quick job, but if you let your tip get in real bad shape, you'll either have to replace it or spend time cleaning as shown in the following video.
I would urge you to get into the habit of tip-cleaning as part of each soldering session and not let your tip get into a state.
FITTING PL-259 CONNECTORS
As you build up your shack, you will probably solder connectors over and over, so to avoid poor connections and troublesome fault-finding, make sure that you spend time doing it properly and always, always, always test your connections with a multi-meter before pushing your radios back into place.
There are two types of PL-259 plugs : regular soldered connectors and the compression-type. The compression plugs are about the best but they're not always readily available at your local store, so you need to order them online, making sure that they are the right size for the cable you're using them with.
As usual, it's better to ask someone at your local radio club to give you a tutorial on PL-259 fitting, but if that's not possible, take a look at the many YouTube videos on the subject. Here's some to get you started...
TAKING SWR READINGS
It's very important to understand that your shiny new radio can very easily be turned into a useless paperweight by transmitting into a non-resonant antenna. And contrary to popular belief, you don't need to be transmitting at high-power to cause damage - many QRP operators have blown the finals on their low-power radios.
Most radios (but not all) have an SWR Meter built into them and in the main, they can be depended upon for giving a reasonably accurate reading. If you suspect that the meter is not wholly accurate or if it's difficult to read, then you might want to invest in an external meter.
External meters tend to do more than just indicate the VSWR - they also include Power Out and even the amount of power that is being reflected back into your radio!
Transmitting into a perfectly resonant antenna will obviously mean you're working at maximum efficiency and with an SWR reading of 1.0:1 all your transmitted power is going out, with nothing reflected. No losses, no potential harm, maximum efficiency.
Although a 1:1 ratio is the ideal, it's often not possible to achieve that and in the main, anything up to 1.5:1 is fine, but as you start to get over that figure, you'll notice that the amount reflected back to your radio increases, which means your signal is not going to go as far.
Being a QRP operator with only 10W available to you means that you can ill afford to lose a few watts. So rather than accepting a 1.5:1 VSWR reading as being workable, change your antenna to something which offers better efficiency.
If your "mate" tells you not to worry about your SWR figure if it's under 3:1 then he's not very clued up! Aim to operate an efficient station right from the get-go and it will serve you well as you upgrade your licence and use more power.
And remember, adding an ATU may bring your SWR down, but it doesn't alter the fact that your antenna isn't resonant - a bad antenna will always be a bad antenna, no matter what.
To test your SWR, select a clear frequency close to where you wish to operate, reduce your power to 5W and ask if the frequency is clear. Ask again. If nothing is heard, switch to CW or AM or RTTY mode and briefly transmit while looking at your SWR meter.
Once you've achieved the best possible reading, you can go back to your chosen working mode and increase your power to 10W. Remember though, that this reading is relevant only around the frequency you tested it on. If you move from one end of a band to another, it is very likely that the SWR will dramatically change, so you'll have to repeat the procedure.
I suggest that you check SWR readings across the whole band so you are familiar with your antennas resonant areas. If you are using a multiband antenna such as an EFHW, then do tests right across the range.
You would be well advised to invest in an Antenna Analyser if you can afford to do so. If you Google "NanoVNA", you'll see a range of small and cheap analysers that will not only show your VSWR, but much more including impedance. These are excellent bits of kit, especially if you intend to try some DIY antenna building!
Personally, I opted for the NanoVNA "F" model because it comes in a tough case and has a larger screen. You can read more about analysers by clicking HERE and HERE.
INSTALLING AN RF GROUND
The first consideration should be about making the route to ground as short as possible! Luckily, I live in a bungalow and I hammered a ground-rod deep into the soil just on the other side of the external wall, so it's about 4ft away from my radio.
In theory, you should solder/braze your connecting wire to the ground-rod but in practise, that's quite difficult, so I opted for one with a fastener already in place (as can be seen in the photo above).
The wire that comes in through the outside wall is terminated to a large nut & bolt, to which I run individual wires to each piece of radio equipment (including ATU's etc). If at all possible, use the very widest cables you can to connect your equipment to your ground. Consider those wide braided battery leads.
|>>> CLICK PHOTO <<<|
CHOOSING SUITABLE ANTENNAS
If you're very lucky, you'll live on top of a hill with solar-power and no neighbours and you can have an antenna farm going on, with huge, triple-stack. Meanwhile, back on planet Earth, you'll probably live in a low valley urban area with whinging neighbours on all sides and a tiny garden.
Life sometimes sucks and you just have to make the best of your situation. Yes, we all want a huge tower with a rotating beam, but maybe an end-fed wire will have to do - or short vertical.
For me, I live in a row of bungalows and most of the occupants are old aged pensioners who spend their day twitching their curtains looking for something to moan about. So erecting large antennas is out of the question for me.
I started off by installing a VHF/UHF colinear - a Diamond X300. Unsurprisingly, this resulted in a letter from the Town Planning Department, citing a complaint from a neighbour and asking me to remove it immediately.
Well I responded to the Planning Department with an email and they backed down and rejected my neighbour's complaint. If you want a copy of that letter, here it is....
I cannot recommend that antenna highly enough. Even if your current radio doesn't cover all three bands, it's still worth buying so that you're future-proofed. It's also very compact!!
For HF I originally installed a half-size G5RV which everyone will tell you is a poor performer. Well as usual, that's not quite correct. Every antenna works differently at different locations, different configurations and different heights.
To avoid winding up more neighbours, I had to do a bit of a stealth installation. I was using the G5RV ina straight dipole formation with one leg of the dipole sitting directly under the soffits at the side of the house, while the other leg was in free space. It was far from ideal but I thought I'd give it a go.
Well it worked very well and I used it for a good few months, working all over the world. It worked pretty good on 12M, 20M, 40M and 80M but struggled on all other bands even with a good ATU.
I recently added a multi-band End-Fed-Half-Wave from WireAntennasUK and I have to say it's just fabulous!! It's 66ft long and I ran it from the top of my chimney to the far corner of my garden. It supposedly doesn't need an ATU but that's plain nonsense. Even a resonant monoband antenna can benefit from an ATU at the far extremes of the band - especially on some of the wider bands.
I have been thinking of getting a multiband vertical but the thing that stops me is the fact that despite the manufacturer's claims, they really do need long radials fitted (at ground level or below) in order to be efficient.
In the summer months, it's easy to temporarily erect an extra antenna in the back garden using a fibreglass extending mast (like a fishing pole). I sometimes use one of my SOTABEAMS 20/40M dipoles in an inverted-v configuration and they work superbly well.
I also enjoy experimenting with DIY 1/4 waves as can be seen below. The internet is brimming with designs for this sort of stuff and it's a lot of fun just 'having a go'...
You can see in the image that I've got the G5 coax and the X300 coax going to a switch each and then I have the option of sending the signals to whichever radio I wanted to use. To be honest, I have since routed the large RG213 Cable from the VHF/UHF antenna directly to my IC-7100 to avoid any signal loss due to the switches.
You can also have a switch outdoors too, so that you can easily pipe the signals from a temporary or experimental outdoor antenna into the shack....
Out and about in the hillsides, I almost exclusively use antennas from SotaBeams. They are cheap, light, strong and effective! They come in a small carry-bag and include brilliant winders to make it simple unwinding and rewinding the wire. SotaBeams have a wide range of portable antennas including dipoles and end-feds. All perfect for QRP (and beyond).
USING AN ATU (TUNER)
If I could have a dozen or so antennas, each one dedicated to a single band, there'd be no need for a tuner and life would be wonderful. It would also be wonderful if I woke up one morning to find Emelia Clarke laying beside me. Hmmm, that's never gonna happen either!
So let's get back to reality and accept the fact that most people can only have one HF antenna. That being the case, it's going to be a multiband - maybe a 20/40M or maybe even an 80-10M. The manufacturer will probably claim resonance on all bands, but we know that's usually nonsense unless you're happy with a hot SWR figure in parts of the bands. Bear in mind too, that when a manufacturer produces SWR figures, he does it with his antenna in the most favourable location/configuration. It's a bit different when you've got the wire dangling from your veranda 😂
So, you install a tuner, because ATU's can magically TUNE any antenna can't they? Well actually no, a tuner DOES NOT tune an antenna at all.
Whilst at a Radio Rally recently, a more "advanced" operator pointed me to an ATU for sale and told me to buy it, claiming it can make a long wire resonant at any frequency. I had to bite my tongue. 😵
When you plug your coax into your radio's antenna socket, it expects to see an impedance of 50 ohms and if it's much higher, then you're potentially going to have problems. The Standing Wave Ratio will climb, transmitted power will be reduced, power reflected back into your radio will be increased and basically, no one will hear you and you'll risk damaging your radio.
Inserting an ATU in circuit will do nothing other than find a match between the antenna and radio by sprinkling magic dust over the end of the coax and presenting 50ohms to your radio so that it doesn't blow up the finals.
Your antenna's performance at that "tuned" frequency will be no better than it was before. It simply means that your ATU has permitted you to transmit there by introducing capacitance or inductance on the feedline. And the ATU is absorbing the reflected power and dissipating it safely as heat instead of it going back into the radio's output-transistor.
So don't let anyone tell you that an ATU can make your antenna resonant. It can't - it can only make it possible to TX on the antenna.
ATU's are a bit like ALCOHOL - An ugly member of the opposite sex is still ugly even though you've drank a few pints of beer - the beer just lets you overcome your natural inhibitions and allows you to do what you might not otherwise be able to. The beer however, will impair your performance 😂😂😂 Yeh, call me Shallow Hal.
Apart from improving your chances of transmitting on a non-resonant antenna, ATU's can also make the RX better! You only have to listen (or look on a radio's waterfall) to see the difference before and after the ATU's done its stuff.
So which ATU should you invest in?? Well first of all, I would strongly recommend that a novice stay well clear of a manual tuner - it's just not worth the hassle! Buy an automatic model instead - it means you just push a button once and the tuner does all the work for you. And stay away from OEM tuners such as Yaesu's or Icom's or Kenwood's own unless you have antennas which are fairly close to resonance.
|The superb LDG Z-100Plus|
Another popular manufacturer of tuners is MFJ. Some of their stuff can be a bit dodgy in terms of manufacturing quality, but I can certainly vouch for their 993B model - but it's a very pricey unit!
For QRP work, LDG have a nice range of "zero-power" units which work from AA batteries that last over a year! I use a Z-817 model with my Yaesu FT-818. It's incredibly compact and light.
KEEPING A LOG
You should already know that keeping a log is no longer compulsory. But most people still do. And everyone has a favourite logging program - mine is QRZ.com
QRZ.com's logbook is fast and reliable and there are around SIXTY MILLION records on it so far, so it's obviously very, very popular! Once you've recorded a QSO in your logbook, you can ask the other station to CONFIRM your QSO and that confirmed contact will go toward any rewards later on.
Now bear in mind that not everyone uses QRZ - they may use LOTW or NN1M or HRD or a million other logs. They may choose to do this because they control their radio with software which helps log QSO's semi-automatically. We all have different needs and likes. Even if you choose to use logging software such as LOG4OM or NN1M, you can still configure it to sync your logbook with your QRZ.com log.
The good thing about QRZ is that it's stored in the cloud, so it's accessible from anywhere, at any time - on your PC, your tablet or your phone.
But even if you don't keep a log, please do create a QRZ.com account and do a profile page so that anyone who looks you up can learn more about you - it just makes for a nicer contact when you can see a face and maybe discover that someone has something in common with you such as a hobby, etc.
QSL CARDS / eQSL
It took me a full year to discover that we have our own QSL MANAGER! I've been spending a small fortune sending out QSL cards to people all over the world, when all I needed to do was send a batch to my QSL Manager's address and he'd do the rest! No one told me! 😂
If you're a member of the RSGB (and I strongly recommend you join), then you have a QSL Manager assigned to you. Once you've looked up who he is on the RSGB website, send him your first batch of outgoing QSL Cards with the outer wrapper off your RADCOM magazine and he will make sure that they go through the BUREAU and land safely at the intended recipient - at no cost to you.
If you also send your QSL Manager a number of Stamped Addressed Envelopes, he will post any incming QSL Cards to your home address.
To find out more about how this works, click on the image below...
|Click for more info|
If you join a radio-club, you can bet your bottom dollar that a percentage of members will firmly reject the idea of working digital modes - especially FT8!! It's often seen as the devil and the demise of RF operations. More enlightened members will embrace digital modes as just another means of playing radio.
To play FT8, you need to have a piece of software called WSJT-X and a radio which can connect to a PC via a USB port. If your radio has a built-in soundcard (modern radios tend to) then you're set to go. If not, you'll have to use the computer's soundcard or a device such as the SignaLink USB.
I'm not going to provide a tutorial here - that would be too involved for me - instead I'll point you in the right direction to get going. You should watch a few videos to get the gist of operating on FT8 with your particular radio!
There's every chance that the FT8 software (WSJT-X) will not work properly until you made quite a few menu-setting changes on your radio, so make sure you Google something like "IC-7300 Menu settings for FT8" or "TS-590 Menu settings for FT8" or "DX3000 Menu settings for FT8" before anything else!
And bear in mind that getting FT8 settings sorted out on your radio may well have an effect on your normal SSB settings, so you should store your normal settings as "SSB" or "NORM" and then save your FT8 settings as "FT8" if your radio permits such a thing.
Please note that TIME IS CRITICAL when it comes to FT8 and by that, I mean that the time on your PC must be absolutely accurate! There is software available to take care of this.
You may think that FT8 sounds like a load of hard work, but don't worry, it's not. Just watch some of these videos and you'll soon be on-air enjoying another interesting facet of HAM Radio.
DSTAR & C4FM
Even though you may have only just passed your Foundation/Technician exam, you're probably aware of DSTAR and C4FM (the latter also known as System Fusion). Both are popular across the world and both are Digital modes of operation.
With either mode, you can speak directly to another person using the same system using a Digital Voice mode or you can use a repeater, reflector or gateway to reach someone on the other side of the world.
If you have a local repeater which has DSTAR or FUSION capability, then you will be transmitting directly to that repeater using RF, but if you have no local digital repeaters then you will have to use another portal to make contact with others.
The most reliable and common method is to use a "dongle" or "hotspot". That's a small device which receives your radio's transmission, converts it to data and sends it through the internet and on to a repeater (for example) across the world where it can be received on someone else's radio as RF.
Which system should you go for? I guess that depends on whether or not you have a compatible local repeater for one and not the other. And it may depend on how many of your regular chat-mates are using one system or another.
If you are going to use a hotspot such as the OpenSpot, then you can actually use both DSTAR and C4FM with the same device (even DMR). They are very simple to setup and they work reliably. These devices output around 20mW and your radio only needs to transmit about the same amount of power back to it, so your handheld battery will last all day long!
Obviously, you need to be in range of the hotspot - you can't use it from down the road, but it will work perfectly well anywhere in your house and more than likely from your garden.
Like FT8, many people frown upon these digital modes, but if you're a rag-chewer, then you'll enjoy the huge variety of people that you can reach using these platforms. Instead of talking to John Bull in Wigan, try a chat with Miyamoto Musashi in Tokyo 😃
It's surprising how long you can be in the hobby and still not be aware of some popular software that others have been using for years! Some of it you will consider essential once you've started using it and others will just fall into the 'handy now and then' category, but if you know about the software, then you can at least decide which you like using and which can be uninstalled after a trial.
RADIO CONTROL SOFTWARE is something you love or loathe. For many operators, connecting their radio to a PC and controlling it from there is a big bonus, while others would see this as a negative.
I'm one of those who likes to try anything once! So my personal recommendation is to try it and then decide. Most software developers have 'trial-versions' of their software, so there's no excuse not to have a go.
IF YOU DO want to use any radio-control software, you will very likely need to install OmniRig and its associated "ini" files. Do that now...
HAM RADIO DELUXE
This bit of software has been going for many years and is regarded by many as the holy grail of radio-control-software. It not only provides full control of your radio (multiple radios) but it's also a logbook which can integrate with QRZ, LOTW, etc. There's a mode for working digital and there's also modules for satellite work and even rotator control. The software has many configuration options to allow users to tailor the program to suit them. The cost starts at $99 for an electronic download. Download the trial!
WIN4ICOMSUITE and WIN4YAESUSUITE is a piece of software for controlling Icom and Yaesu radios. The Yaesu version will control the FT-991's and all the FT-DX range from the 1200 to the 9000. The Icom version controls most Icoms from the IC-7100 to the IC-9700 with more to follow.
The software is simple and straightforward. It includes support for the built in Spectrum Scopes of the Icom radios as well as the SDRPlay RSP devices. Win4IcomSuite has 6 virtual radios built in that can interface to any third party software programs including HRDLogbook, DM780, DXLab Suite, N1MM+, Log4OM and many more. Download the trial! ICOM - YAESU
I'll be honest - I purchased Ham Radio Deluxe and hardly use it anymore. I guess it attracted me initially with all its bells and whistles but ultimately, I found myself preferring the touch and feel of the radio itself. No doubt this will change if ever I start to get seriously into contesting, where the HRD facilities might be more helpful. The only thing I tend to use it for these days is when I am using the Yaesu FT-891 in the shack which has a tiny screen.
LOGGING SOFTWARE : We already discussed my personal preference for logging - I use QRZ religiously and I upload my logs to eQSL. But for many, that's not enough - they want more automation and more integration with other software that they use, so I'm going to list some of the most popular logging programs and then you can try them out before purchasing one to keep.
There are 60,000,000 records on QRZ, so it's easy to see that it's hugely popular, reliable and free. Apart from providing a supremely accessible logbook, it is also the default place to go to find out about an operator who's callsign you've heard on the radio (including special event stations). You can have multiple logbooks and they can be exported to other software easily and quickly. Becoming a paid-for subscriber gets you extra benefits.
LOG FOR OLD MEN as it's affectionately known, is one of the most popular logging programs out there - and it's free. Donations are very welcome though, to ensure continuous updates and development.
LOGGER32 is another piece of free software. I've not tried it out yet but I must admit it looks quite interesting. Think I might give it a go.
Again, this a popular and free logging program. There's a + version which I believe is a favourite of contesters. Worth a look if you think that contesting may be something you might do in the future.
If you want to learn about more logging programs, you can find a list of them on DXZONE by clicking >>>HERE<<<
There's loads of Apps to play with on your phone/tablet (IOS/ANDROID) and it's well worth browsing through your app-store to find them. I'll list some that I use on my mobile devices...
QRZ Call Search - a great little app to let you search for callsigns (and more). Not only can you access the QRZ database to read Bio's, you can also access your log from here too, which is handy.
SOTA FINDER - Complete list of SOTA Summits. No internet required. Displays location, WAB, OS Grid Reference, etc, etc.
MAIDENHEAD - Shows you the latitude, longtitude and Maidenhead Locator on a movable, zoomable map of the world.
COMPASS 55 - Another great compass app for when you're out and about and want to know which way to point your beam. Includes a 3D map!!
iDX 2020 - (IOS only) - A superb DX Cluster database.
In addition to these, there are LOTS more including exam preparation apps, antenna calculators, web-sdr receivers, all sorts!! Have a look around your app store and try things out. You might end up deleting quite a few, but I guarantee you will find some gems!
JUST IN CASE you've never heard of Hack Green, I thought I'd include it here. When you start to think that the bands are dead, just have a listen through Hack Green.
Basically, it's a WebSDR which is setup inside an old Nuclear Bunker at RAF HACK GREEN near Nantwich in Cheshire. The station has some fabulous antennas and these pick up the signals that you're perhaps not hearing (leading you to think the bands are dead).
You can listen to HF or VHF/UHF by visiting two different webpages. It's a fantastic site BUT PLEASE BE AWARE that you may have to use Microsoft Edge browser because Chrome updates keep buggering up the sound.
HF available @ HERE
VHF/UHF available @ HERE
OF VHF/UHF REPEATERS
If you're totally new to all this and have never used a Repeater before, this post may help you a little. Just bear in mind that I'm an M7 licensee and know next to nothing about anything, but I think I understand the basics, so here goes...
First of all, let's just very quickly explain why we might need to use a repeater in the first place. When you are trying to make a simplex contact with someone who's line of sight is interrupted by high terrain or even tall buildings, you might choose to use a repeater to overcome the obstacles. Most repeaters are located on high ground or in a location which has good line of sight between multiple towns/cities.When you transmit to a Repeater which is within your reach, your signal goes into the repeater on one frequency and is instantaneously re-transmitted on a different frequency. Because of the Repeater's height and location advantage, your re-transmitted signal can now hopefully be heard by your friend on the other side of that hill which was getting in your way.
And it's not just about buildings and terrain blocking your simplex signals - it might just be that your friend cannot hear you simply because you're too far away. Having a Repeater half way between the two of you will often mean that you can successfully make contact.
Each Repeater has a CallSign just like you. They also have an Input (RX) frequency and an Output (TX) frequency. Some Repeaters operate on simple FM Analogue, some on Digital, some Fusion, some DMR and some DSTAR. For now, let's just consider simple FM.
Let's look at GB3BEG in Wigan, UK. It's a UHF Repeater located in IO83QN. It has an Output (TX) frequency of 430.9125 and an Input (RX) frequency of 438.5125. So it receives on 438.5125 and re-transmits on 430.9125.
So if you wanted to use GB3BEG, you would LISTEN to the repeater transmissions on 430.9125 and you would TRANSMIT to the repeater's receiver on 438.5125.
Just pause and make sure you understand that. This diagram may help...
So from your point of view, you are using two frequencies and it would be a pain in the backside if you had to keep quickly switching between the two during a conversation. Well your radio is capable of operating in SHIFT mode, where you tune into a particular frequency and the radio SHIFTS the frequency by a certain amount while you're pressing the PTT button. Repeaters tend to use common shifts and the one in the example above uses a shift of minus 7.6MHz.
Repeaters are best stored into your radio's memory bank. So with this particular repeater, you would choose FM MODE, tune into 438.5125 and store the frequency in a Memory slot with an alpha-tag of GB3BEG (or maybe Wigan) and a Minus 7.6MHz shift.
There's one more thing to do before you save that Memory though!
If you simply transmit to a repeater's input frequency, nothing will happen, because repeaters require you to send them a "TONE" in order to open up their squech and give you access. All modern radios have these tones stored as a list, so it's just a case of telling your radio which tone to use for this particular repeater.
GB3BEG uses a tone of 82.5 so add that setting to the Memory Slot and then Save.
When you go to that memory slot in your radio, it will know to listen on 430.9125 and before transmitting on 438.5125 it will send the correct tone to open up the repeater's squelch.
If you finish programming your radio and the repeater does not respond at all when you key up, just double-check to make sure you didn't get the repeater's TX/RX frequencies the wrong way around in your memory slot.
And bear in mind that even though a repeater is closeby, it doesn't necessarily mean that you can open it. From my own QTH I am unable to open a local repeater 4 miles away and yet I can open one 40 miles away! It all depends on what's between you and the repeater.
So there you have it - a simple analogue FM repeater. How about a Fusion repeater?? Well they're just the same! In fact they're often easier because you don't have to enter a CTCSS tone - you just store the RX/TX frequencies, MODE and the correct SHIFT into a Memory slot.
Some repeaters are MultiMode, meaning that they can handle Analogue, DSTAR, DMR, C4FM, etc. If you had a radio which includes FM and DSTAR you would need to program that multi-mode repeater into your radio's memories twice - one slot for working analogue FM and another for working digital DSTAR.
To test your memory programming, you should see if you are able to 'open' each repeater. When you transmit to a repeater, it should reply with a short beep or a string of morse-code and stay transmitting for a couple of seconds (or someone listening may reply to you).
Repeaters have TIMERS and will automatically shut down after a certain amount of TX time has passed - typically 3 minutes. When in a QSO with someone, it's important between overs to leave a good 3 second gap to give the repeater time to stop transmitting - otherwise your TX-time will be considered as a continuation of your friend's time and will therefore be cut short. If you wait for the repeater to fully stop transmitting before you start, you will get your full 3 minutes to chat.
Before moving onto other aspects of repeaters, it's worth noting that (as with all other Ham Radio operations), a Repeater Etiquette exists.
The basic rules are....
I plan on adding some more information including...
* USING SDR DONGLES FOR PANADPTERS/WATERFALLS
* USING WSPR TO TEST YOUR ANTENNAS RANGE
Okay, you've reached the end of this post (at last). I do hope it's been of some use to you. If you have any questions or something to say, leave a comment below.
I want to say something I've said before - this is one of many hobbies for me, so I have a limited amount of time and effort that I can (or want) to put into it. Some of you guys will only have this single hobby and will want to pour everything into it and go much further than me - I wish you well and hope you succeed!
If you have any write-ups or ham-tips which you think may be of interest to visitors, by all means contact me with them via email - firstname.lastname@example.org