IC-705 & FT8 TIME-SYNCING

TIME IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS

When you fancy playing FT8 outdoors on the top of a big hill in the middle of nowhere, just bear in mind that you often find yourself in a location which has no access to wi-fi or even mobile phone signal.

In these circumstances, you might as well switch to some SSB Voice activities because without a perfectly synced clock on your computer, FT4/FT8 just isn't going to function well. But don't worry, because your amazing little IC-705 has built-in GPS which can output its data in NMEA format and your computer (with an app) can make use of that data, extracting the time component from it.

So how do you go about setting it up? It's easy!

First of all, go into the radio's MENU....

• Make sure you're on Pg 1
• Click SETTINGS
• Click CONNECTORS
• Click USB (B) FUNCTION
• Click GPS OUT to ON
• Go back to the MENU and go to Pg 2
• Click GPS
• Click GPS TX Mode
• Select NMEA

Now check that your GPS Icon at the top of the screen is steady (not flashing). That means it's locked onto satellites and is ready to use. You can double-check by going back into the GPS menu and looking at GPS INFORMATION to make sure your Lon/Lat coordinates are correct. That's your work completed on the radio.

On your computer (Laptop, Notebook, Tablet), download a program called BktTimSync from HERE.

Install the software and complete the setup.....

• Click "ENABLE GPS" 
• Enter correct COM #
• Select BAUD 9600
• BITS = 8
• BITSTOP = 1
• PARITY = N
• PROTOCOL = NMEA
• Click SYNC ON SYSTRAY
• Click SYNC ON STARTUP

Check that the GPS Coordinates look correct. All other settings seem to be okay at their default readings. Please note that if you wish to use this software at home where wi-fi is available, untick the ENABLE GPS and tick the NTP instead.

If you don't know which COM port number is the right one, remove the IC-705 USB Lead from the computer, open up DEVICE MANAGER and look down the list at Ports (COM & LPT). When you plug your IC-705 in, you will see a new COM number appear - that's the one! 

When you run your FT8 software, you should find that your DT Timings are super accurate. Don't forget to make a small donation to the author - anything helps :-) 

 

Here's a video on how to use your IC-705 to correct the time on your Laptop....

Thanks for visiting - please take a minute to leave a comment below 

73, Tom, M7MCQ.

DVMEGA CAST REVIEW

THE DARK SIDE I HAVE BEEN

I started my digital affair with a girl named DSTAR and then later flirted with C4FM, swapping between the two for a couple of years. But I never went to the DARK SIDE (aka DMR).

I've tried DSTAR on Kenwood's D74, Icom's ID-52, 7300, 7610, 9700 and more recently the lovely IC-705. Due to accessibility issues with local repeaters, I've almost exclusively used a HotSpot to make contacts. Once the initial learning period was over, I found DSTAR easy to use and very reliable.

For C4FM I've used Yaesu's FT3, FTM400 and the FT991A. Again, due to a lack of access to repeaters, I've depended on my OpenSpot2. More recently, I've started to use my mate's Gateway (MB6HW/G4CFP). I also enjoy accessing Wires-X through my PC and FTM300. Access to Fusion repeaters has been much simpler when mobile in my truck using an FTM7250.

DMR I've purposely avoided because A) I'm already overloaded with stuff that I need to learn more about and B) I don't want another radio to pay for, charge, and worry about. Additionally, I believed DMR can be quite tricky to setup due to something called CodePlugs 😵 

The DVMEGA CAST is basically an IP Radio which connects to your broadband router wirelessly or via an ethernet cable. It's based on the DVMEGA AMBE3000 utilising a Raspberry Pi-Nano. It has a built-in audio amplifier providing 3W to the internal speaker, which produces a good clean sound.

The unit has a 2.5inch touch-screen on the front panel, along with a rotary encoder for adjustments and an RJ-45 socket for a microphone. It's worth noting that a microphone (eg MH-48 or similar) is NOT provided, nor is a power-supply.

 

It will receive and transmit on DMR, DSTAR and FUSION  using networks such as BrandMeister, DMR+, YSF, FSC, REF, XRF, XLX, DSC etc. Wow, that spiked my interest!

Further reading revealed that the DVMEGA CAST is around the same portable size as an IC-705 and thanks to its wireless connectivity can be used anywhere - obviously without any need for antennas, which is great for when you're on holiday or working away from home. It's also great for those who live in antenna-restricted accommodation.

The rear panel provides a socket for an external speaker, two USB-A sockets, an ethernet socket and a power socket.

Inside my DVMC you can see the PCBs which make up the Pi-Nano and amp. At the back you can see I added the optional DVSTICK30 which permits remote operation of the device.

To operate remotely, one needs to download the (free) BLUEDV app for Windows. With this (and the optional DVSTICK30 installed) you can leave the DVMC switched on and access it from anywhere in the world.

Setting up the DVMC must be a simple operation - because I did it and I'm a newbie!! 😂 It's just a case of connecting it to your router with a network cable (RJ-45 to RJ-45) and then running the Pi config screen in a browser on your PC laptop/tablet (type http://pi-star).

You can update the firmware by downloading the latest version from the DVMEGA website. You'll need the Serial # and Service # from the rear panel of your radio - I've never done it because everything works, so why bother spoiling things huh? Once you're in the config screen, it's fairly obvious which settings you need to alter to get you on the air.

With the main configuration completed and network connection established, you need to make changes to the mode settings....

I already had a DMR-ID but I still couldn't get the DMR part of the radio configured because I didn't have a BRANDMEISTER ID. I registered for one but it didn't arrive for around 24hrs, so until that arrived I had to change the settings from Brandmeister network to TGIF. I wouldn't have had a clue about that change but for the help of Ian, a club-friend. Now that my Brandmeister ID has arrived, I'll switch the setting back.

Anyway, I was now able to successfully receive and transmit on DMR, DSTAR & C4FM - happy days.

The radio is pretty simple to operate but I believe it's not always been like that. Recent updates have added much more functionality. In DMR and DSTAR modes, you can change TalkGroups/Reflectors straight from the screen and by using the buttons on the microphone, but Fusion Rooms need changing through your Pi-Star config screen. This may change in the next update. For me, it's no big deal because 90% of the time I want to tune into North West Fusion Group.

When receiving a signal, the speaker panel turns a green colour and when transmitting it turns red. Otherwise it displays a blue colour. These colour changes are also shown in the top right corner of the display screen.

The radio is a lot of fun! It's small, portable and simple to operate. Having the 3 main digital  modes in a single package is a first (for me) and I'm liking it - a lot. The audio quality on any of the modes is excellent and the only negative I can come up with is the fact that the screen is a bit on the small side. I don't know if there's a way to connect a larger external screen (I have a 7" HDMI hanging around somewhere), but I'll do some research to find out.

I've been using my DVMC in the corner of the lounge next to my IC-705 as opposed to being the Shack and so I've normally got my PC tablet in my hand. This allows me to have the Pi-Star browser open, giving me convenient access to any changes that I want to make... 

The radio doesn't come with a mic as standard, but a cheap Yaesu mic only costs around £25 anyway. The DV USB STICK is a nice accessory but only if you want to do remote. 

Filling an ML&S Basket with the same goods would result in a bill of £460 😦😦😦

There are people out there who hate NON-RF radios. People who mock them. People who would rather not play radio unless their signal comes down an antenna. But I'm not one of them. I see them as true rag-chewing devices. I enjoy listening to ham operators and engaging with them via any means, be it an RF Radio, a Hotspot, a PC or a combination. I enjoy experimenting with anything that comes under the umbrella of  Ham Radio. 

If you happen to have an MH-48 mic hanging around and don't mind connecting the radio to your existing power-supply, then a standalone DVMEGA CAST will only cost you £320 new. That's pretty good value for money - I can certainly think of a few things that cost me more which gave me less entertainment. It's got me onto DMR without all the (apparent) hassle of codeplugs and programming. Result!

To give you an idea of the quality of voice transmission, below is a video of Gregg (K6EGG) talking to me on Reflector 1C in December 2021. The video should start at the point where I'm (M7MCQ) about to respond to Gregg's call, but if it doesn't, just skip to 13mins.

Click HERE if video doesn't display

UPDATE : UPDATE!! 

I recently updated the firmware and WOW!!!

Click here for details<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Specifications : 

- Cabled (RJ45) or Wi-fi to internet connected. 

- No RF connection or repeater needed! 

- Webinterface based configuration option. 

- 2.4" touch screen for setup and control. 

- Support Yaesu MH-48 with keypad for control. 

- Rotary encoder for volume and multi-functionality. 

- Embedded high-end CPU on dedicated mainboard. 

- Support D-Star, DMR, and C4FM mode. 

- Integrated Original DVSI AMBE3000. 

- Easy to use web-based upgrade utility. 

- Support a DVMEGA-pi radio for Hotspot functionality. 

- Supports an internal DVStick30 for AMBE-server. 

- Low power consumption 12VDC (2.1 mm Barrel Connector). 

- Colourful speaker indicator for status. 

- 3.5mm external speaker connection. 

- High performance 3 watt speaker 

- Extra USB-connections available for future use. 

- Solid full-metal powder coated housing 

- Lifetime free Software updates.

Thanks for visiting. Leave a comment.

73, Tom, M7MCQ.

MAGNETIC LOOP TABLE CLAMP

TABLE CLAMP FOR ALEXLOOP

Yesterday I was looking for a table-clamp for my magnetic loop - something I could use in the garden or out in the field or parks. I tracked down a few on Amazon which seemed ideal - they were actually intended to support computer monitors but would meet my requirements perfectly. The only problem was that Amazon had no stock and their prices were ridiculous anyway! Amazon (UK) have really started to crack up their profits recently and I'm getting mighty cheesed off with them.

Fortunately, I managed to find the manufacturer of the clamps I'd seen on Amazon and they were actually based in England so I ordered directly from their website.

The £14 clamp-post arrived the very next day and unfortunately it was bigger than I thought. I had to cut it down with a hacksaw. I retained the plastic 'blanking plug' for later use.

With the post cut down to size, I tried the AlexLoop tube in it and found that there was too much play. By cutting out a section of the nylon blanking-plug, I could use it as a bush to take up the slack and then the AlexLoop fitted perfectly!

I should point out that this thing is bigger than it looks and is not very lightweight, but it is very effective for those occasions where you're going to be sat at a table. It's super stable and puts your loop at the perfect height for convenient tuning. 

Excuse the terrible video-editing, LOL

Thanks for visiting - please take a minute to leave a comment below 

73, Tom, M7MCQ.

ALEXLOOP HAMPACK

ALEXLOOP & IC-705 INITIAL LOOK

For the last couple of years I've been quite happy to use my SotaBeams 20/40 Linked Dipole with my LowePro Tahoe BP-150 backpack and 7M telescopic mast, but more recently I've grown increasingly interested in using a Magnetic Loop because of their compact dimensions and ease of erection.

Please just remember that I'm an M7 Foundation License holder and have no real technical knowledge or training. The following is just my interpretation of things.

The Sotabeams Dipole needs to be used (for maximum efficiency) in an inverted-vee format using a 7M extending pole. The pole takes a little time to erect and guy off and the whole thing is very obtrusive. This setup also has quite a large footprint, so if you erect it in a public place like a park, you're gonna stand out like a sore thumb. And let's not even talk about the trip-hazards.

AlexLoop HamPack

With a small magnetic loop, your footprint is massively reduced - down to the size of your tripod base. Trip-hazards are equally reduced. It doesn't even use any counterpoise wires! It's an altogether more compact arrangement. But will it perform as well??

The AlexLoop is very well known and highly regarded by amateur and professional reviewers. The quality of materials and construction is second to none and according to everything I've read, so too is the performance of this "magic" antenna.

The standard AlexLoop (aka WalkHam) has a small plastic tuning box with a tuning dial at the bottom at the case. The newer and updated version has a much better tuning arrangement with a very clearly marked dial located on the front face of the tuning box and a helpful tuning LED.

The only trouble is, you have to buy the "AlexLoop HamPack" to get the new tuning box which means you might be buying a backpack when you don't really want or need to, at a total cost of almost £600. My trusty LowePro BP-150 has been great for me, but I've no choice but to accept the backpack which comes with the updated loop.

 

Not only is the new dial aesthetically better than the old one, but there is also much better control over the rotation of the dial which is incredibly important when it comes to that final fine-tuning, where even the slightest movement can make a big difference to your SWR.

With the latest dial, there's a kind of "slow motion" which makes it super easy to use. To tune the loop, you initially rotate the dial to the desired band marking and fine-tune by listening out for the loudest reception on your radio and the brightest illumination of the LED. With the best audible signal received, you can then complete the fine-tuning by transmitting a carrier and making adjustments for the very best SWR. It's very simple!

If you are tuning a loop without the benefit of an SWR meter, you might want to watch the above video which clearly demonstrates how difficult it is to achieve a low SWR figure by ear alone!

 

The AlexLoop tuning-margin is very sharp indeed, so the slightest movement either side of the signal will result in a dramatic drop in the signal strength. Some might consider this to be an annoying part of magloops, but the fact is, it is a major advantage in cutting out noise from adjacent frequencies.

The mid-grey backpack is fairly good quality and is roomy enough for most QRP rigs such as the IC-705, FT-818, KX3, etc, plus accessories. You are treated to two internal bags to carry those items and still have a little bit of room left to squeeze in a sandwich. The two internal cases should have swapped names though, because there's every chance that most owners will put their transceiver inside the Accessories bag - especially if you've got something like an IC-705 which is bit on the bulky size. 

I would also add that there's very little padding in the rucksack and I intend to insert a piece of flat foam inside the front pouch - maybe even one of those sit-pads would be a good idea. Note - there is no waterproofing to this rucksack, not even a slip-on waterproof cover 😕

The only thing that will not fit inside is a regular sized tripod! Having said that, many people use one of those very compact tripods that are available these days and such a device could easily be stored in the elasticated pouch on the side of the rucksack. I'm in the process of modifying a small camera tripod that will work with this rucksack. Thankfully, loops operate perfectly well at just a metre from the ground!

The tripod I use is the ultra cheapo JESSOPS TP-318 with the camera-mount removed. Sliding the AlexLoop tube over the tripod's center-shaft results in a wobbly loop, so I added a 19mm section of tube to take up the slack. It works well but I just might add some guy-cords to the outfit to prevent the tripod tipping over in high winds.

Guy-Lines in old Pencil Case
prevents tangling

Normally, you wouldn't want to be too close to a Magnetic Loop during transmissions, but the AlexLoop is only rated for 25W so no harm should befall you, which is a good job, because you always have to be physically close enough to reach that tuning dial! I use my ICOM IC-705 for my QRP work so the loop will only ever see low power. Constant-carrier modes should always be restricted to 10W.

The AlexLoop HamPack has a frequency range of 7MHz to 30MHz so it's a very handy antenna to take with you on your outings. It basically covers 7 bands and you should be able to achieve a good SWR on all of them. As far as I'm aware, you can't use a separate Tuner on these loops - but then again you shouldn't need to.

So what are the drawbacks of magnetic loops? Well for me, the only real negative is that you cannot switch to a band and see a nice bandscope full of signals because the magnetic loop has an extremely narrow bandwidth, so you have to constantly re-tune as you move across the band. It's actually not too bad on 20M but on 40 you have to re-tune every time you move more than around 20kHz.

The thing with loops is that you can have all the benefits of a small antenna and you can even have amazing efficiency (with good quality, well designed loops), but you cannot have wide bandwidth. With dipoles like the one from SotaBeams you can have wide bandwidth and good efficiency but you can't have size benefits. You have to choose just two of the things that are most important to you.

My understanding is that under certain circumstances a magnetic loop may outperform a dipole or yagi IF that dipole/yagi are not mounted at least one wavelength above ground. If they are mounted below that 'ideal' then the loop may well perform better. The loop will not benefit from being raised to a great height above ground - it just needs to be clear of objects in its immediate vicinity and desired direction of radiation.

In noisy urban environments (that's most places these days 😂), magnetic loops tend to have far superior receive capabilities than even large HF beams! That's because they respond more to the magnetic components of surrounding signals while being almost deaf to the electrical  components. Yeah!!

This antenna makes life so easy for those who spend most of their radio hours playing Portable QRP. One rucksack containing everything you need. I'll post more when I spend a full weekend outdoors with the AL & 705. If I get the time, I will erect both the loop and the dipole and put a switch between them for comparison.

You’ve got to bear in mind that this small loop IS a compromise antenna! It’s fabulous for its tight-focus and rejection of adjacent signals and it’s fantastic in a noisy environment, but it does have its limitations.

Some people express concerns about being too close to a Loop during transmissions but that’s only relevant (I believe) if you are transmitting a constant carrier such as FT8. But in that case, you would tune the antenna and then move a couple of metres away from it.

If you are on SSB, moving around the bands searching for a contact then you’ll want to stay within reach of the tuning dial and at 10W with the intermittent SSB carrier, that’s okay!

Update due soon <<<

Thanks for visiting - please take a minute to leave a comment below 

73, Tom, M7MCQ.

REPEATERS FOR BEGINNERS

BASIC  UNDERSTANDING
OF VHF/UHF REPEATERS

If you're totally new to all this and have never used a Repeater before, this post may help you a little. Just bear in mind that I'm only an M7 licensee and know next to nothing about anything, but I think I understand the basics, so here goes...

First of all, let's just very quickly explain why we might need to use a repeater in the first place. When you are trying to make a simplex contact with someone who's line of sight is interrupted  by high terrain or even tall buildings, you might choose to use a repeater to overcome the obstacles. Most repeaters are located on high ground or in a location which has good line of sight between multiple towns/cities. 

When you transmit to a Repeater which is within your reach, your signal goes into the repeater on one frequency and is instantaneously re-transmitted on a different frequency. Because of the Repeater's height and location advantage, your re-transmitted signal can now hopefully be heard by your friend on the other side of that hill which was getting in your way.

And it's not just about buildings and terrain blocking your simplex signals - it might just be that your friend cannot hear you simply because you're too far away. Having a Repeater half way between the two of you will often mean that you can successfully make contact.

Each Repeater has a CallSign just like you. They also have an Input (RX) frequency and an Output (TX) frequency.  Some Repeaters operate on simple FM Analogue, some on Digital, some Fusion, some DMR and some DSTAR. For now, let's just consider simple FM.

============

Let's look at GB3EG in Wigan, UK. It's a UHF Repeater located in IO83QN. It has an Output (TX) frequency of 430.9125 and an Input (RX) frequency of 438.5125. So it receives on 438.5125 and re-transmits on 430.9125.

So if you wanted to use GB3EG, you would LISTEN to the repeater transmissions on 430.9125 and you would TRANSMIT to the repeater's receiver on 438.5125.

Just pause and make sure you understand that. This diagram may help...

So from your point of view, you are using two frequencies and it would be a pain in the backside if you had to keep quickly switching between the two during a conversation. Well your radio is capable of operating in SHIFT mode, where you tune into a particular frequency and the radio SHIFTS the frequency by a certain amount while you're pressing the PTT button. Repeaters tend to use common shifts and the one in the example above uses a shift of plus 7.6MHz.

Repeaters are best stored into your radio's memory bank. So with this particular repeater, you would choose FM MODE, tune into 430.9125  and store the frequency in a Memory slot with an alpha-tag of GB3EG (or maybe Wigan) and a Plus 7.6MHz shift.

There's one more thing to do before you save that Memory though!

If you simply transmit to a repeater's input frequency, nothing will happen, because repeaters require you to send them a "TONE" in order to open up their squelch and give you access. All modern radios have these tones stored as a list, so it's just a case of telling your radio which tone to use for this particular repeater.

GB3EG uses a tone of 82.5 so add that setting to the Memory Slot and then Save.

When you go to that memory slot in your radio, it will know to listen on 430.9125 and before transmitting on 438.5125 it will send the correct tone to open up the repeater's squelch.

If you finish programming your radio and the repeater does not respond at all when you key up, just double-check to make sure you didn't get the repeater's TX/RX frequencies the wrong way around in your memory slot.

And bear in mind that even though a repeater is closeby, it doesn't necessarily mean that you can open it. From my own QTH I am unable to open a local repeater 4 miles away and yet I can open one 40 miles away! It all depends on what's between you and the repeater.

============

So there you have it - a simple analogue FM repeater. How about a Fusion repeater?? Well they're just the same! In fact they're often easier because you don't have to enter a CTCSS tone - you just store the RX/TX frequencies, MODE and the correct SHIFT into a Memory slot. Most Fusion Repeaters are connected to a particular room on Wires-X and if you change that room to another, the repeater will eventually switch itself back to its favoured room. Some of these repeaters are locked to a certain room.

Many repeaters are MultiMode, meaning that they can handle Analogue, DSTAR, DMR, C4FM, etc. If you had a radio which includes FM and DSTAR you might want to program that multi-mode repeater into your radio's memories twice - one slot for working analogue FM and another for working digital DSTAR. Having said that, many modern radios have Automatic Mode Switching.

To test your memory programming, you should see if you are able to 'open' each repeater. When you transmit to a repeater, it should reply with a short beep or a string of morse-code and stay transmitting for a couple of seconds (or someone listening may reply to you). 

Repeaters have TIMERS and will automatically shut down after a certain amount of TX time has passed - typically 3 minutes. When in a QSO with someone, it's important between overs to leave a good 3 second gap to give the repeater time to stop transmitting - otherwise  your TX-time will be considered as a continuation of your friend's time and will therefore be cut short. If you wait for the repeater to fully stop transmitting before you start, you will get your full 3 minutes to chat.

Before moving onto other aspects of repeaters, it's worth noting that (as with all other Ham Radio operations), a Repeater Etiquette exists.

The basic rules are....

• ALWAYS LISTEN before transmitting!
• Call a particular contact "G4CFP, M7MCQ".
• Don't call CQ!
• You can solicit a call with "M7MCQ listening on GB3BEG"
• Use Phonetics.
• Try not to interrupt an existing conversation unless you think you have something useful to add. You may ask if it's okay to join in.
• Try not to hog the repeater if activity/demand seems high.
• Do not test repeaters by using a short PTT pulse. Instead, say "M7MCQ Testing".
• Leave 3 second pauses between transmissions so that the repeater doesn't time out and so that other people have the chance to 'break in'.
• If you have gone into 'ramble mode' and think you are going to time-out on the repeater, you can say that you're going to take a quick break and stop transmitting for 3 seconds to reset the repeater's timer and give you longer to finish what you were saying. 
• BEAR IN MIND that ANYONE could be listening to the repeater output, so don't treat it as some sort of private network! Watch your P's and Q's.
• ALWAYS welcome newcomers and those who sound nervous.
• Be kind and courteous.

 

WHERE ARE MY REPEATERS??

To find your local repeaters (in the UK) you simply need to visit the RSGB REPEATER LIST and do some sorting...

First thing to do is to enter your 6-figure LOCATOR reference and click on Calculate. Now you need to sort the list by clicking on the km column (or mi column if you've changed to miles).

You will be presented with a list of repeaters in your general locality and beyond. Everything that you need to know in order to program your radio is shown on that screen including the CallSign of the Repeater, its distance from you, the TX/RX frequencies, the Tone and the modes of operation.

I recommend that you program in quite a few - you'll be surprised at how many can be opened from your QTH even though you may think they're too far away. As I said previously, I can open one 40 miles away very easily on 10W. On the other hand, there's some much closer that I can't reach.

Obviously, don't bother putting in repeaters which will only function on modes which you don't have (such as DMR if you don't have a DMR radio).

 

SIMPLEX GATEWAYS

In addition to Repeaters, you will also be surrounded (to one extent or another) by Simplex Gateways. In order to see a list of them, just CLICK HERE and enter your 6-digit locator and do a sort again.

These are usually Nodes operated by individuals with a special licence. The one closest to my QTH  (MB6HW) is operated by my friend Bill (G4CFP) and he usually has his Fusion gateway connected to the North West Fusion Group room, so when I listen to his simplex frequency of 144.8625MHz, I hear whoever is operating in that room. 

If I wish to, I can (through my radio's Wires-X system) change rooms, eg: move from NWFG to CQUK, but before I leave the gateway it is good etiquette to move the gateway back how you found it.

Simplex Gateways are still something that I'm learning about, so I'll leave it there for now until I feel confident to write more about it. Just bear in mind that it costs nothing to tune in to your local Gateways and have a listen around and ask questions. And always leave a 3 or 4 second pause between overs on a Simplex Gateway!

You should also bear in mind that you may find yourself tuning into a nearby Gateway Frequency and chatting away with someone believing that you're going through the gateway when you are actually just talking to someone via a Simplex connection. This can lead to confusion and can also be quite annoying and disruptive to the Gateway.

Imagine for a moment that you are tuned to your local gateway frequency of 144.8625 and someone you normally hear on there is active and responds to your call. He is operator A in the diagram below and you are operator B.

Your handheld's low power signal is reaching your mate's radio, but not reaching the Gateway. Your mate is close enough to you to hear your signal AND he's close enough to reach the Gateway....

So, you're both happily chatting away to one another but your mate is also chatting on the Gateway, so any Gateway listeners can hear all your mate's side of the conversation, but none of yours. This is the Simplex Conundrum and you need to be mindful of this when transmitting on a nearby Gateway frequency.

So how do you know if you're both getting through to the Gateway for sure?? Well I guess that you could both call for a radio check and see if someone nowhere near the locality is hearing you both - that way you know for sure that you're going through it. There may be better ways, I'm not sure, but I'll update this page when I find out more.

Your local radio club should be your first port of call for learning about these things, so do ask around at the club for further guidance.

UPDATE : My friend Bill (G4CFP) has pointed out that you could always press your DX button to connect the Gateway to WiresX to confirm that you are actually reaching the gateway. He further points out though, that some repeater/gateways are locked to particular rooms and won't allow you to alter the room.

Take care, 73, Tom, M7MCQ.

Comments below... 

LETTER TO PLANNING DEPARTMENT

WHEN NEIGHBOURS COMPLAIN

I mentioned this subject previously within a different (and looooong post), but thought it might be worthwhile giving it its own page so that it's easy to find and easy to link to when need be.

When I moved into my little bungalow, it wasn't long before one of the neighbours decided to complain about my colinear which I'd erected at the peak of the roof. Bear in mind that this isn't some great big multi-element Yagi - it's a discreet white stick and doesn't cause any harm and isn't unsightly.

Of course the complainant never knocked on my door and discussed her unhappiness with me directly - she just lodged an official complaint with Bolton Town Council instead. I wasn't even aware of it until a few weeks later when a letter dropped through my letterbox.

 

The letter informed me that an inspector from the planning department had visited my property to inspect my antenna erection which had been the cause of a complaint. I was told to contact the planning department to discuss further and in the meantime, remove the antenna immediately!

The letter provided me with a name and an email address, so I wrote an email to the lady who had carried out the inspection and explained that I was a licensed radio amateur and it went like this....

------------------------

ERECTION OF ANTENNA

Hi XXXXX, thanks for writing to inform me of a potential problem with the antenna that is currently erected at my property.

I wasn't aware of any issues with neighbours - certainly no one has enquired or complained to me about antennas being erected and dismantled.

Perhaps I should begin by pointing out first of all  that I am a Licensed Radio Amateur. I was awarded a government licence after a great deal of study and sitting an examination. My OFCOM Licensed Number is AM000nnnn. I am also a member of the Radio Society Of Great Britain (RSnnnnnn) who may be called upon to help their members with issues relating to planning queries.

My license is for the purpose of self-training in radio communications, including conducting technical investigations. I may also be called upon by any government body in the event of an emergency to aid in communications. A good example of that would be the recent Moorland Fires just behind my property on Winter Hill. RayNet were heavily involved in the communication logistics. RAYNET is regarded as a professional support organisation by both the statutory and volunteer emergency service organisations.

My main area of interest is in the experimentation of antennas and propagation. Radio propagation is the behavior of radio waves as they travel, or are propagated, from one point to another, or into various parts of the atmosphere. Line-of-sight propagation means radio waves which travel in a straight line from the transmitting antenna to the receiving antenna.

Basically, this involves me putting an antenna together, erecting it temporarily (but SAFELY & SECURELY) and carrying out radio tests in multiple modes including analogue and digital for the purpose of self-education and development.

The antennas which I erect and dismantle as part of my radio propagation experiments are >>temporary<<  Sometimes an antenna might only be erected for a couple of hours! 

I consider myself a very caring and considerate neighbour and am disappointed to think that I've upset someone living close to me. I do everything possible not to be visible in my activities - even going to the trouble of dismantling/erecting very early in the morning just to keep a low profile and to avoid being a distraction to people.

I would very much appreciate a meeting with you at my home so that you can explain to me what it is that I'm doing wrong and why I need Planning Permission for the temporary erection of an antenna. I have invested a great deal of money, time and effort to become a Licensed Amateur Radio Operator and I wish to stay within the rules of the local Council whilst also avoiding unnecessary restrictions.

Please feel free to ring me on 07976 --- --- at your convenience.

With kind regards,

Tom McQuiggan.

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The person I emailed rang me shortly after receiving my email and thanked me for explaining everything and she said it was both helpful and informative. She pointed out to me that her job was to take a balanced view of any complaint and after reading my letter she was going to inform the complainant that no action was going to be taken.

I think this letter was successful because it was a concise, balanced and calm response. I wasn't defensive and showed genuine concern about being a good neighbour while making it clear (in a non-threatening manner) that I had every intention of continuing with my licenced hobby and had the support of the RSGB when it comes to planning issues.

I wrote this letter after taking advice from my friend Stuart (G0IUA) who suggested I mention certain things such as the temporary nature of the antenna and the self-training and experimenting). If you find yourself in a similar position, perhaps this letter will form the building block of your response to your local council.

Stay well, 73, Tom, M7MCQ.