Monday, 25 March 2024

APPLIANCE OPERATOR

I've become aware that there are operators out there who refer to some other hams as "Appliance Operators". This is clearly meant as a derogatory slur on the ability of these 'lesser mortals' to do anything more than use off-the-shelf equipment. 

Truly worthy hams always take the difficult path - investing time and effort in gaining a deeper understanding of electronics, enabling them to design and build their own equipment.

This mocking expression obviously makes them feel superior but it doesn't take into account the fact that many hams (especially those relatively new to the hobby) just don't currently have time to invest in deep study - maybe they have a family and need to assign a large portion of their leisure time to their spouse and children.

Maybe they have a full-time, demanding, stressy job too, which impacts on the amount of free time they have. Maybe they have a few other hobbies in addition to radio. Or maybe they just don't want to do much more than go down to the shops and buy a transceiver off the shelf and enjoy a simple bit of chin-wagging with someone across the globe!

I find it quite annoying when I see these sort of attitudes, especially when the same people are always the least helpful to newcomers and would rather see the hobby die a slow, lingering death than reach out to someone with a few words of kindness, encouragement and help. 

Don't get me wrong - there's nothing worse than someone who just wants everything handing to them on a plate - but when someone is looking for  a bit of a leg-up, then why not try to help them??

Thankfully, for each one of this type of person, there are twice as many positive operators who are kind, helpful and eager to encourage growth in the hobby.



Whinge over!

73, Tom.


Thursday, 14 March 2024

HAND-HELD PC

GPD WIN MAX

Three years ago (doesn't time fly?) I bought a used notebook to take with me out in the field and it's served me well, but it's not the fastest thing in the world and it's not the smallest or toughest, so I gifted it to my mother-in-law and it suits her low demands perfectly.

So I wanted to replace it with something very small, light and pretty tough. I didn't need blisteringly fast performance, but I certainly wanted something with an above average GPU, fast ram and an SSD. I own a very fast Gaming Laptop, but it's just way too big to be lugging around with a radio.

I looked all over and was pretty shocked at the prices of things, so I turned to the second hand market. It was there that I came across something for sale right here in my hometown. It's something I'd heard about before when I was searching for my gaming laptop, but it didn't appeal due to its small screen.

The PC I'm referring to is the tiny hand-held GPD WIN MAX. Looking at the specs and the construction, it seemed like it might be the perfect device for my needs, so I started to find out more about it on the internet and I read a whole bunch of very complimentary reviews.


It's approximately an 8"x6" clamshell design with nice rounded corners and it's about an inch high. Under the lid is an 8" Touch-Screen - perfect!  I can't tell you how many times I find myself prodding dumb-screens with my finger, lol. The screen also benefits from the use of Gorilla Glass which is pretty darned scratch-resistant.

Despite the small dimensions, the GPD WIN MAX features a full QWERTY keyboard including F1-F12 function keys and number keys.  Above the keyboard is a Touch-Pad which supports multi-finger gestures and clicking.

In the upper corners are a number of gaming pad controls, plus two very high quality James Alps analogue sticks which are robust and work incredibly well. For gamers, there's the familiar L1/2 and R1/2 buttons on the outside edges. 

Under the covers lives an Intel i5 cpu and Intel Iris Plus 940 graphics processor, which makes this a great little performer! In fact, it's primary role is gaming - including the ability to emulate other platforms such as Xbox and PlayStation. Not something I'll be doing, but I'll certainly benefit from the added ooomph!

This is backed up with 16Gb of DDR4 ram running at 3733MHz and an M.2 PCIe 512Gb SSD.  If 512Gb storage isn't enough 😂 you can also take advantage of the built-in SDCARD slot which is A2 compatible - mine had a 256Gb Sandisk A2 Extreme Pro already fitted. Of course it's also extremely easy to add an external drive in the form of a plug-in USB SSD (if you work with large video files, etc).

Connectivity is great - there's Wi-Fi 6 built in and Bluetooth 5, along with an Ethernet RJ-45 socket for direct connection. The good news is that that the PC recognises my AirPod Pros and that includes full and proper use of the Airpod's microphone!

Other connectors include a full-size HDMI, two USB-A, one USB-C and one ThunderBolt 3. The USB-C port acts as the charging port and the Win Max comes with a 65W charger.

One of the very best connectors is the Thunderbolt 3. With this, it is easy to expand your machine and make it even faster and more convenient by adding a Thunderbolt Docking Station.

This allows you to have a single cable from your PC to the dock and have all the other connections provided at the hub, including ultra-fast transfer speeds, multiple external monitors and more. This is fantastic if your GPD WIN MAX is your only machine and you use it as your home-base computer as well as your portable.

Anyway, for me it's just a compact PC to take out in the field. On it I will have all my radio-related software and little else. It comes in a faux leather pouch and will easily drop into my RuckShack.

Battery-Life is claimed to be over 10 hours, but we all know that's a load of nonsense. For that to work, you'd have to switch on every single power-saving function and avoid running anything which caused the cpu to speed up. In real-life terms it seems to be around 6 hours, which is plenty for a day out playing radio.

I managed to get a free upgrade to Windows 11 and everything is running fine. All my regular Ham Software is installed and I'm extremely happy with this tiny marvel.

Connecting to the FlexRadio 6300 remotely was no problem and running two panadapters was effortless - no glitches or stuttering at all. It was all very fluid and enjoyable.

Up to now I've not hit any problems with anything, so it's all good. I'm not sure if the top bank of gaming controls can be configured for other uses - it would be handy if they could! 

So in summary, I reckon this will be a pretty darned handy device for SOTA/POTA work. It's very light and compact and yet powerful and fully featured. On the secondhand market you can buy them for around £350, which is a bit of a bargain.




73, Tom, M7MCQ



Sunday, 10 March 2024

RADIO-KITS EXPLORER (PART-2)

 PART 2 - TESTING! 

Having previously posted about building the Radio-Kits Explorer, now is the time to switch it on and see if the magic smoke is released.

I had followed the instructions and run all the tests listed in the instruction guide. Thankfully, everything seemed fine and to spec, so I finished off the last bits of construction and got it ready for full operation. For the first switch-on I used a 12V 600mA psu and plugged it in. The radio lit up and made radio-like noises. No smoke!! 👍

I connected an EFHW and checked the receive capability of the Explorer and I'm happy to report that everything is working really well! Thankfully, there was a contest running , so there were lots of SSB signals to listen to from all over the world. The narrow CW filter worked well too down at the bottom of the band. So far, so good! 👍👍👍

Then I plugged the Explorer into a computer and Windows saw the device and assigned it a COM port 👍

The PA BIAS adjustment was odd. It is set by default to 100, which is too low. When you select the option, the radio goes into TX (no RF) and the red LED lights up. The current draw went from 154mA (RX) to 285mA and adjusting the BIAS made no difference - it's supposed to increase the current draw and you keep rotating the dial until you've added about 40mA to the initial reading you got. 

Odder still, every time I return to the BIAS menu option, the figure has defaulted back to 100. I assumed it would maintain the adjusted level, but it doesn't. Apparently, this is normal but I’d personally prefer it to remember the figure. The reason Steve forces it to default to 100 is in case an owner changes the PA transistor. If I had to change the transistor, I’d probably do a full reset anyway.

The end result is that the radio isn’t transmitting. I tested it in CW mode on a straight key and every time I keyed-up, I saw a current draw around 280-290mA and the Power Out reading on the radio's screen was 0W. 😨 

I wrote to Radio-Kits and Steve said he'd put together a list of things to check. 

 5TH MARCH 

Steve emailed back promptly and gave me some things to check...


With a 13.8V input and the receiver set to measure bias current (SYS MENU - TX BIAS - 100 - red led on), Point-1 should be around 13.8V and Point-2 should be 0V. They were both fine👍

Next up was a resistance measurement between Point-1 and Ground (with the power supply disconnected). It should be 890 Ohms - it was 👍

Next was the bias voltage. This involved setting the bias figure to 300 and measuring the voltage at Point-3. It should be 2.1V and it was. Voltage at Point-4 should be 1.5V and it was. 👍

Next, Steve wanted to know the voltage at Point-5 (the PA transistor Gate) with the bias setting at 300. It should be 2V and it was. 👍

He also wanted to know the current being drawn by the radio if the bias setting was increased to 400. The current didn't alter at all with the increase from 300 to 400. In fact, the current stayed the same even if I increased the bias setting to 1000 😮

If you're an outright beginner and you're not exactly sure how to use your multi-meter to measure current, see the diagram above. Be sure (in this instance) to pick the mA port on the meter. 

By this time, it was getting late into the evening, so we called it a day. Steve signed off with a note about the PA transistor, saying to check the voltage reading on the metal tab which backs onto the case and he also mentioned the connections on the T2 windings. I'll leave it for tomorrow.

 

 6TH MARCH 

I checked the voltage on the transistor’s metal tab and it read 13.8V which was correct. At this point, I took note of Steve’s suspicion that the output transformer (T2) wires might not be making contact.

Checking the wires with a continuity tester, everything seemed fine, but I decided to reflow the solder joints anyway and boom - it worked! Thanks for your guidance Steve!!

FULL 5W OUTPUT
With the radio showing a solid 5W into a dummy load, I rebuilt the radio and started to run some on-air CW tests. I connected an EFHW and used my Elecraft T1 tuner to get a good match. During the tuning process, I saw the output power vary between 1.5W and 6W. This prompted me to ask Steve if the Explorer had any built-in SWR protection and the answer was no.

He followed it up with a reassurance that it won’t fail as long as it doesn’t get too hot. The Elecraft T1 usually finds a match very quickly, so I’m not too worried about that, but obviously, you need to be cautious when using data modes such as FT8.

Once I’d got the radio matched to the antenna, I started to put out some CW TEST messages and within a minute or two of sending, spots appeared on the Reverse Beacon Network as far away as 1,100 miles away into Eastern Europe. Conditions were very poor tonight, so I was quite happy to see those. 

Later, I tried again and managed to make 3 contacts in the USA, over 3,500 miles away! I’ll try again at the weekend from a better location.  I also need to find a suitable microphone to run some SSB. 


While I've been fiddling around with the Explorer (especially during the testing phase) I thought that the radio would benefit from a Power Switch - so I fitted one!

I'd noticed that the PCB had two contacts marked power-switch and I asked Steve how these could be used. He explained that one simply needed to cut the track in-between the contacts and then route a switch to it. The problem, he said, was which switch to use and where to put it.

Well I looked around and bought some single-pole, single-throw, latching, push-button switches on Amazon and when they arrived, I discovered that they were much too long and would touch the PCB, so I simply fitted one of the fixing nuts above the fascia plate and one below. I then splayed the legs out and hey-presto, it fitted perfectly! If I can find a lower profile switch later, I'll swap it out.

I opted for a white colour to match the writing on the radio fascia. I think it adds a real convenience to the radio and saves you from repeatedly plugging/unplugging the power plug.

Modified with Power-Switch

I also made some other tiny mods which obviously make no difference to performance - it's purely cosmetic - but it personalises the kit you've just toiled over. Apart from the heatsink and the power switch, I also swapped out the case screws for some stainless-steel low profile cap-heads from ACCU. And finally, I fitted a black aluminium knurled finish tuning knob.

Oh, just for convenience, I also fitted a kick-back stand to angle the radio up toward me. These are actually sold as Laptop Stands and I've used them lots of times on portable radios. 


 

I do plan to make one more mod and that relates to the Mic Bias option. Inside the case there's a link which you fit a small jumper to if you want to introduce a 5V bias to the microphone for electret mics. I think I'll fit a small slider switch to the side of the radio to bypass the need to open and shut the case if you want to switch mics.

At the time of writing, the manual didn't include any diagrams showing the connector configurations, so I've knocked together a sketch below...

More testing... 

Obviously, I'm a Foundation License holder with no fancy test-equipment and even less expertise. All I can do is look at the Explorer from a practical end-user point of view and maybe compare it to a couple of other similarly priced radios.

To give a radio the best chance of working to it's maximum ability, I always test radios from a quiet location, where the noise floor is low and the take-off is good. I have a holiday home on the edge of the Forest of Bowland, so no better place to play radio! 

I decided to head up to a slightly elevated location called Bodie Hill above the Port of Lancaster. This place overlooks Morecambe Bay, out toward the Irish Sea and beyond. It's a great take-off point and it's also a beautiful place to work from. It's weird how you can see ships floating above the houses at Sunderland Point. One of my favourite places to operate from, not least of all because there's loos and cafe's not too far away 😂


Because I'm working a single band, I setup with a 20/40 Linked Dipole from SotaBeams - it can always be relied upon for great results as long as you've got the space to erect it. If I didn't have the space required, I'd use my Super Antenna MP1 Vertical on a tripod.


The first thing that I normally notice when I switch on a radio here, is the stony silence, but the Explorer has around S3 noise with no antenna connected. When I was at home, I'd blamed the local QRM, but no, it was the same here too. Now bear in mind that it may be due to my build-skills and not the radio. Or it might just be the way the S-Meter is setup 🤷‍♂️.

As I tuned around, the incoming signals negated the need for a super low noise floor anyway - almost everyone was S5 to S9+ anyway and boy, did the signals flow in - it was a busy day on 20M.

I tuned to the CW portion of the band and put out some CQ TEST messages to see how far my signal was being spotted on RBN. I spent a few minutes doing this, changing the frequency each time. I'll download the report later.

To use SSB I plugged in a TNT microphone that I'd hurriedly made up to suit the jack-plug configuration of the Explorer - I was using a non-electret mic on this occasion. I found someone calling CQ and went back to him, unsure if the mic was actually working. He came back to me immediately, confirming that I'd got the wiring right, lol.

He gave me a 59 from Bykovo, Russia, which I think was more of a bouquet of flowers than a true report, but I took it anyway. He certainly wasn't struggling to hear me.

Next up was a contact in Lithuania, followed by two Germans, an Italian and an American guy in Austin, Texas! I got great signal reports from everyone, apart from the Texan, who gave me a 4/0. Despite this, I was talking with him longer than any of the others, so he had no problem copying me. He was very impressed with the fact that I was using a kit-radio and asked for the manufacturer's website.

After a few more SSB contacts, the rain started to pour and made a cold day, colder! I was happy that I’d tested the radio sufficiently enough to draw conclusions on its performance, so I packed up and headed back to the caravan.

Back home, I was interested in trying out different mics and I tried to alter the mic-gain, but Steve informed me that it's not variable - it's fixed by R29 at 100k. So I will have to spend time playing around with other mics which means cutting connectors off and fitting new ones 😨 


CONCLUSION 

Let me preface this by saying that I really enjoyed building this kit and I am really pleased with the finished product, including the form factor and that blue case. It is not a compact radio like a (tr)uSDX or a QMX and doesn’t try to be. In fact, its size makes it A) unique in the marketplace and B) easier to build. In contrast, QRP-Labs seem to have gone to great lengths to keep the QMX as small as their QDX by using a 6-layer pcb and construction methods which can make the build quite a challenge (although their instructions are second to none).

The Explorer construction/user guide is perfectly adequate for seasoned kit builders, but I’d say it’s a bit lacking from a novice’s point of view. Having said that, the designer acknowledged this and is about to make some alterations.

The radio does not have a bootloader, so there’ll be no firmware upgrades available through the USB port - something we’ve all become familiar with in recent years, to the point that we now expect it.

Ergonomically, I’d say the radio is lacking. There’s only one controller and that makes some tasks a bit laborious. I was quite shocked to find that you cannot change the Tuning Step unless you use CAT Control 😮, although the Explorer does feature Progressive Tuning, where the tuning rate increases the faster you spin the dial. I’m not sure how much would be involved in a redesign  to include a second encoder or additional function buttons, but I’m sure it would make a huge difference to the enjoyment of the radio.

Performance-wise I found the receiver to be quite sensitive and selective when fed with a good antenna in good conditions. It was definitely better than the (tr)uSDX but not massively so. 

In terms of value for money, I guess the Explorer doesn't do well compared to the competition. For less money, you can buy kits which provide you with five times as many bands to play with, more modes, lower power consumption, better ergonomics, a built-in microphone, ptt/morse key, morse decoder, memories, swr bridge, colour screen, firmware upgrades and more!

It sounds like I’m not very happy with my purchase, but the fact is, I’m glad I bought the Explorer and for me, it’s a keeper. As I said previously, I love building these kits and Radio-Kits.co.uk have made something that is just that bit different.  If they bring out a V2 with a richer feature list and better ergonomics, I’d buy that too!

But I’m not normal 😂 Most people buying a kit-radio would be doing so to save money and they’d be keen to get the best feature-set for the least money. This is where the (tr)uSDX really makes sense. So too does the QMX, even though it currently doesn’t include SSB (although future firmware upgrades will add it). If your main modus-operandi is CW, then the QMX would easily win out here, thanks to its click-reducing envelope shaping.

Anyway, I’ll be keeping my eye on the Radio-Kits website and look forward to any new additions to their range.

If you have any comments, please leave a note below and try to include your callsign.


73, Tom, M7MCQ.


UPDATE 14 MARCH 2024

I have been testing microphones and experienced a rather big issue. For some strange reason, my transmissions sounded DREADFUL!!! I had the power output on the Explorer extremely low and was listening in on my RGO ONE. Every time I keyed up and spoke, the audio was shockingly bad.

I couldn't understand what was going on, because I was calling CQ all last weekend and had been getting great reports!

I approached Steve and explained what was happening - he was baffled like me. He asked if there was power out when I spoke into the mic and I told him, yes. He said he'd give it some thought and get back to me.

I returned to the radio and transmitted some more, but this time I turned the VFO dial on the RGO ONE - boom - it was then that I discovered the Explorer's VFO Calibration was out by 70Hz 😶

Lesson learned - RTFM! Well in all fairness, I didn't really think I'd need to calibrate the VFO after reading this part of the manual...

VFO Calibration Frequency calibration will already be close due to use of a TCXO but may be improved if required.

I should, of course, have checked though. All my fault.

73, Tom, M7MCQ


Wednesday, 21 February 2024

OFCOM'S LICENSE VARIATION

OFCOM'S LICENSE VARIATION IS NOW ACTIVE!

As of today, the 21st Feb 2024, OFCOM have announced that the new variation to license has come into effect. Full details are below (click to read the PDF file)...



Wednesday, 14 February 2024

STREAMDECK & FLEX 6300

EXTERNAL CONTROL FOR FLEXRADIO 6300

Because I have a 32-Button StreamDeck and a Flex-6300, I thought it would be a worthwhile little project to link them both together. Needless to say, it wasn't as easy as I thought because the SmartSDR software doesn't have native keyboard mapping, so you can't apply keystrokes to buttons as you might normally do.

It seems that the way you go about this sort of thing is to use a very popular 3rd-Party piece of software called FRstack which virtually every Flex owner will be aware of. FRstack (V3) allows you to assign tasks/events (even multiples with tailored delays in-between) to StreamDeck Buttons.

I should point out straight away though that if you assign certain keyboard characters to a button (such as SpaceBar=PTT), you will end up keying your mic everytime you press the spacebar whether you want to or not (as long as FRstack is running). So it's better to avoid doing that, except maybe the F1-F12 Function keys.


Of course this meant a lot of learning and no doubt a string of cock-ups before making any progress, but thankfully, Erik Carling (EI4KF) had already used his blood, sweat and tears getting the StreamDeck to function properly with FRstack - and therefore with SmartSDR. Without Erik's mighty contribution, I'd still be wrestling with the commands. Thank you Erik for sharing your profile 🙏

Some of Erik's profile worked and some of it didn't. The errors were no doubt due to differences in either our ownership of software or their file paths - who knows? So as it stood, I couldn't make use of Erik's profile BUT it was incredibly helpful in letting me understand the command syntax. The video below by David Deccons was also helpful...


After an hour or so I managed to start a new profile and create an initial layout of my own. Needless to say, it's not perfect and I plan to spend a lot more time refining it, but at least I feel like I've made some good progress tonight.

One good little tip I learned was that it's easy to see a button in someone else's profile (eg EI4KF's), copy it and then switch profiles from the drop-down and go to your own profile and paste the button. It will bring across the icon, the text and the actions. You can then tailor them accordingly. Saves you a bunch of time!

At the weekend I'll try new things and I'll reorganise the button layout after spending time using the SteamDeck with the radio. I already feel like I don't need half of the screens. I might end up creating a separate simple single or double screen profile with JUST the very common button presses that I find myself doing all the time. 

Back soon!

















UPDATE

After all that messing around, I soon realised that multiple presses of the StreamDeck screen took up more time than just moving the mouse and clicking!

So I chose the functions that I change most frequently and put them on the front screen. There's a second screen with other software which gets me launching apps quickly.




KISS huh?  I can see this front panel changing pretty frequently as I start to use it and discover what I like and don't like.

73, Tom, M7MCQ.



UPDATE : 
Here's a list of commands that might be of use to anyone wishing to create more complex profiles than me.

Radio cmdval Parameter
INFOreturns radio information
ENUMINFOreturns radio properties enumeration information
ACC0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
AMCARRIERUP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or carrier level
AMPOPERATE0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
ATUParam values are START, BYPASS or CLEAR
ATUMEM0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
AUDIOGAINUP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or audio level
BINAURAL0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
CLIENTNEXT to switch clients, or set client station name, returns client station name
CLIENTSreturns list of clients
CWBREAKIN0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
CWDELAYUP* to increase offset, DOWN* to decrease offset
CWIAMBICMODEA0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
CWIAMBICMODEB0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
CWPITCHUP* to increase offset, DOWN* to decrease offset
CWSIDETONE0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
CWSPEEDUP* to increase offset, DOWN* to decrease offset
CWSWAPPADDLES0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
CWX1 - 12 transmits the CWX Macro
CWXQSK0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
CWXSPEEDUP* increase speed, DOWN* decrease speed, or speed value
CWXDELAYUP* increase delay, DOWN* decrease delay, or delay value
DAX0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
DEXP0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
DEXPLEVELUP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or DEXP level
FDX0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
FILTERSHARPNESSNo param returns CA-ON,CL-1,DA-ON,DL-1,VA-ON,VL-1
CA - CW Auto, CL - CW Sharpness Level
DA - CW Auto, DL - Digital Sharpness Level
VA - CW Auto, VL - Voice Sharpness Level
Note: key value separator can be - or ?
Note: ON/OFF is same as true/false and 1/0, 2 is toggle
param=CA will return only CA
param=CA-OFF will set CA to OFF
param=CA-ON will set CA to ON
combine settings with comma to read or set in single command
param=VA-OFF,VL-2 will turn off voice auto and set level to 2, returns OFF,2
GLOBALPROFILEParam is the profile you are selecting
HEADPHONEGAINUP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or audio level
HEADPHONEMUTE0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
METERINRXMeter in RX - 0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
MICUP to set previous, DOWN to set next
MICBIASMic Bias - 0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
MICBOOSTMic Boost - 0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
MICLEVELUP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or mic level
MICPROFILEParam is the profile you are selecting
MONTX Monitor - 0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
MONGAINTXCWTX Monitor CW Gain - UP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or level
MONPANTXCWTX Monitor CW Pan - UP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or level
MONGAINTXSBTX Monitor SSB Gain - UP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or level
MONPANTXSBTX Monitor SSB Pan - UP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or level
MOX0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
MUTE0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
MUTEALLn/a
PANCREATE add Panadapter, DELETE remove active slice Panadapter
PROC0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
PROCLEVELUP increase proc, DOWN decrease proc, value of 0, 1 or 2
RFPOWERUP to increase power, DOWN to decrease power, or power level
SLICEUP to previous slice, DOWN to next slice, CREATE to add slice, DELETE to remove slice
SPOTSInfo, Clear, Remove and Trigger Spots
param=info to list all spots
param=clear to clear all spots
param=remove,n where spot index n is removed
param=trigger,n where spot index n is triggered
TRACKASlice B tracks slice A Freq enabled; param = true / false
TRACKREVTrack in reverse direction; param = true / false
TUNE0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
TUNEPOWERUP* to increase power, DOWN* to decrease power, or power level
TXFILTERReturns delta between High and Low
TXFILTERLOWUP* to increase offset, DOWN* to decrease offset
TXFILTERHIGHUP* to increase offset, DOWN* to decrease offset
TXINHIBIT0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
TXPROFILEParam is the profile you are selecting
VOX0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
VOXLEVELUP* to increase, DOWN* do decrease, or level value
VOXDELAYUP* to increase, DOWN* do decrease, or delay value
XVTRSTransverter array of Index, Name elements
-XX-Invalid cmd

* NOTE
- DOWN can be replaced by -1, -2, -5, -10, -20 or -50 to step non-default values
- UP can be replaced by +1, +2, +5, +10, +20 or +50 to step non-default values; You must prefix with the +


Slice / Active Slice Commands
http://localhost:5025/ActiveSlice/?param=
To target specific slice letter use
http://localhost:5025/Slice//?param=
http://localhost:5025/ActiveSlice/?letter=&param=
To target TX slice letter use
http://localhost:5025/Slice/TX/?param=
To target slice index use
http://localhost:5025/ActiveSlice/?index={0-7}&param=

Slice cmdval Parameter
INFOreturns slice information
ACTIVEreturn active state and 1 to set it active
AGCMODEDOWN to next mode
AGCLEVELUP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or level value
ANF0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
ANFLEVELUP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or level value
APF0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
APFLEVELUP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or level value
AUDIOGAINUP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or level value
AUDIOPANUP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or level value
BANDband selections
Set band values like 2200, 160, 40, 20, GEN, WWV
or XVTR0, XVTR1, XVTR2, etc.
CLOSE1 to Close Slice
COPYFROMCopy slice information from slice index 0-7 or letter A-H
COPYTOCopy slice information to slice index 0-7 or letter A-H
DAX0 turn off, 1 - 8 DAX channel
DIV0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
FILTERUP to previous filter, DOWN to next filter, 0 - 9 to select filter
FILTERLOWUP* to increase offset, DOWN* to decrease offset
FILTERHIGHUP* to increase offset, DOWN* to decrease offset
FREQUP moves FREQ up by STEP, DOWN moves FREQ down by STEP, other is MHz value
Use 1 - 6 to format exponent length of Frequency; e.g. 2 results in 7.12
FREQEFrequency Entry; Param values are 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,., CLEAR or ENTER
ENTER will set the Slice Frequency to accumulated value
LETTERreturns slice letter and index
LOCK0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
MODEUP to previous mode, DOWN to next mode, other MODE setting (eg. AM, LSB)
MUTE0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
NR0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
NRLEVELUP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or level value
NB0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
NBLEVELUP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or level value
PANPanadapter settings
CENTER center panadapter on slice
UP increase bandwidth, DOWN decrease bandwidth
SEGMENT zooms to band segment, BAND zooms to band
MIN zooms to min bandwidth, MAX zooms to maximum bandwidth
1 - 1000 sets bandwidth
PLAY0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
RECORD0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
RFGAINUP to increase gain, DOWN to decrease gain, or gain value
RIT0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
RITFREQUP* to increase offset, DOWN* to decrease offset, or freq value
RXANTRX antenna selection or , NEXT selects next in list, PREV selects previous in list
SPLIT1 will attempt to SPLIT slice. Will silently fail if no remaining slices for client. This is not a toggle.
STEPUP to increase step, DOWN to decrease step, or step value
SCANstart scan on scan bank
Set scan bank number 1 - 20
or 0 to get scanning bank number
SMUTE0 - 7 slice number to toggle mute setting
SWAP0 - 7 index or letter A-H letter to swap with active slice, if 2+ slices present use NEXT swap active slice with next one
TX0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
TXANTTX antenna selection or NEXT selects next in list, PREV selects previous in list
WNB0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
WNBLEVELUP* to increase level, DOWN* to decrease level, or level value
XIT0 turn off, 1 turn on, other toggle setting
XITFREQUP* to increase offset, DOWN* to decrease offset, or freq value
-XX-Invalid cmd
--Slice not found

* NOTE
- DOWN can be replaced by -1, -2, -5, -10, -20 or -50 to step non-default values
- UP can be replaced by +1, +2, +5, +10, +20 or +50 to step non-default values; You must prefix with the +
- DOWN or UP can be replaced by a value to set; You must prefix with the space


Monday, 12 February 2024

HF TROPHY AWARD

 I was the winner of the Bolton Wireless Club HF TROPHY tonight. Now my wife will have to respect my hobby! 😂😂😂