ICOM IC-7300 MK II

IC-7300 MK2 MINI-REVIEW

Having got shut of my Yaesu FTX-1 🙏,  I made the (very easy) decision to keep on using the wonderful IC-705 for outdoor use and to add the new 7300-II to the shack. And you know what? It feels great!!

 

As much as I really wanted to love the FTX-1 Optima, I found myself increasingly disappointed with it. Despite losing money 🙄 I was still excited to just put it behind me and get back to enjoying radio!

I had a 7300 a few years ago and it was a great radio but the Mk-II has just made things even better. That’s what you want from a new model - new features and improved function - are you listening Yaesu??

Icom have sold over 100,000 Mk1’s, making it one of the most popular and influential transceivers of all time. When introduced to the UK market (almost a decade ago), it was a genuine game-changer, bringing  high-end SDR tech at entry-level prices, setting new standards. It left everyone else in this sector of the market trailing behind for the next few years.

Apart from being a fabulous budget-priced 100W HF, 6M & 4M SDR transceiver with built-in ATU, it was also compact enough to be used outdoors and the 4.3” colour TFT touch-screen was perfectly visible in bright sunlight - as a result you’d often find it used for Field Days and POTA activations.

So what does the MkII bring to the table? Well of course it has all the benefits of the original version plus a few improvements…

• An improved receiver! The old one was great anyway, but improvements are always welcome. The RMDR has been increased to 105dB for a better dynamic range.
• Improved TX Phase Noise! A 12db improvement - now -139dBc/Hz @ 1kHz.
• Improved Power Consumption! Radio only draws 700mA in standby.
• Cooler Operating Temp! I never thought the old one ran hot, but cooler is good.
• USB-C Conector! Much better than the old USB. AND it provides two com-ports!
• LAN Connector! This makes Remote Control far, far simpler! Inline with the 7610 RC.
• RX-In/RX-Out! So pleased to see this valuable addition.
• CW Decoder! So now the 7300- can decode RTTY and CW.
• HDMI Port! External big-screen display.
• IPS SCREEN! IPS replaces TFT for better detail and colours

So all in all, a very nice collection of useful upgrades! And no losses. Thank you Icom for listening to your customer-base and giving them what they want.

Looking at the front panel there’s virtually no changes apart from the colour of the Power Switch and the ‘Mk2’ logo. On the back panel however, it looks significantly different… 

 

One of the most welcome additions to me is the RX IN/OUT connectors. This allows you to connect an inline BandPass Filter or to add a Receive-Only antenna (say a ground-mounted loop) or even add an external receiver in the form of an SDRPLAY RSPA1. The latter is my personal choice - more on this later.

Having extremely limited space in the shack means that the compact 7300 is a perfect fit, but the downside is that I have to locate the radio to the left of my sitting position. To be fair, that’s not really a problem, since I’m one of those people who prefers to operate their base station via their computer most of the time and that allows me to use my PC’s 32” curved screen, amplified speakers and my Elgato Wave 3 microphone.

So the first job was to attach the supplied EMC Filter to the back wall. I’m not entirely sure that these bulky things do any good, but it’s there so I’ll use it. Next up was to squeeze the 7300 onto a shelf next to a matching Icom speaker that I already owned. Boy, that was a TIGHT fit! Then I connected my trusty LDG Z100PLUS tuner and a USB lead for the computer connection. 

I also connected a LAN cable and initiated the network time-sync facility. The LAN connector is a fabulous addition to the Mk2 and I’m soooo glad they included it. Apart from keeping the clock time perfectly synced, it also negates the need for a computer for remote-control operartion - just like the 7610.

To be honest, I didn’t have access to a LAN port in the shack, so I bought a WiFi Extender which includes an RJ45 LAN port and plugged it in nearby. It works superbly and was an absolute doddle to setup! It has also boosted the performance of my computer’s built-in WiFi, making downloads much faster than they had been previously. And best of all, I paid for it with some Amazon Gift Vouchers that I’d received for my (67th) birthday. Result!!

It’ll probably come as a surprise to hear that I didn’t bother using the HDMI port at all 😮. To me, it’s little more than a vanity screen and is only of any real use to the visually-impaired.

With all the basics connected, I powered up and checked that everything was working properly. I heard IX1HPN on 20M and gave him a shout at 10W. He had a pile-up going and I struggled to get through so I increased power to 25W and still struggled, thanks to my extremely compromised ground-mounted vertical antenna 😢. After repeated attempts, he finally heard me and gave me what he called a genuine 59+.

The Mk2 receiver didn’t sound any different to the last one I’d owned. It didn’t sound any better than my 705 or the Yaesu FTX-1.  In fact, I believe that most modern SDR receivers sound pretty much the same and I’m convinced that 9 out of 10 operators who attach such great value to the Sherwood Table would come unstuck in a blind listening test!

IC-7300 Mk2 with my 5yr old IC-705❤️

The Noise Reduction on the 7300 doesn’t offer anything ground-breaking and that’s always annoying to me when I witness the absolute wonders of the NR2 on the cheap Hermes Lite II - nothing comes close to it! But, it is what it is and I find most of my noise-reduction success comes from making regular use of that little RF GAIN dial!

A mate of mine (M7XCA) reckons the Mk2 pulls in a fraction more noise than his Mk1, but maybe that's because his old Mk1 is a little less sensitive than it used to be. It’s hard for me to comment right now because I’m absolutely surrounded by Xmas lights, Xmas trees, Xmas animated decorations. I sure do wish I had no neighbours! 😂

The old 7300 screen was a TFT and that has been updated with an IPS screen, offering better colours and better performance in bright light. The difference isn’t huge, but it’s definitely an upgrade. Whether it’s more durable and longer lasting than the TFT is a question with no answer. All I can say is I hope it’s better than that crappy screen on my Yaesu FT3D🤬.

The new CW Decoder works extremely well and I found that the AUTO mode does a fabulous job of determining the speed and decoding accurately (with a clean signal).

Knowing that everything was working well, I downloaded the latest drivers from Icom’s website and then plugged in the USB cable to the PC. With that done, it was time to install the RS-BA1 Remote Control software and connect the lovely RC-28 external VFO Dial.

Once I’d got that running (I had to update the software to get it to recognise the 7300Mk2), I started to focus on installing an SDRPLAY RSPA1 receiver.

Originally, I thought that I could just plug my SDRPLAY into the 7300’s RX out, because that’s what everyone was saying on the YouTube (and even at Dealerships) but when I did, I got nothing!  And then I recalled a similar experience with my IC-7610, where you need to place the external receiver into a loop using a splitter.  I've created a diagram showing how to connect it...

By using a high quality splitter such as a Mini-Circuits ZCS-2-2+ or a Diamond SS-500, you can be assured that you are also providing a good degree of isolation between your transceiver's receiver(s) and the external receiver. Typically, you're talking about more than 30dB isolation, so there's very little chance of interference from one receiver to another.

At the time of purchase, the Mini-Circuits splitter wasn't available anywhere in the UK - fresh stock wasn't expected for another 3 months, so I turned to the Diamond SS-500 which is well made but at £70 is quite expensive and has an insertion loss of 0.8dB. The Mini-Circuits device has a lower (0.4dB) insertion loss, but costs around £90.  As usual in these post Covid times, stock shortages pushes prices up to ridiculous levels, and you have to choose between stumping up the cash or waiting months. I chose the former.

The Diamond SS-500 is good from 0.5MHz up to 500MHz which falls way short of the SDRPLAY's frequency range, but that's of no consequence to me, since I'm only interested in HF coverage. 

Before I could install the splitter, I needed to make up some PL259-to-SMA patch leads using short lengths of RG-316. Once that was done, I connected them all up.

I then loaded the latest version of SDRuno along with all the various add-ons and also made sure that OmniRig was running and configured for the IC-7300 MK2. 

With everything setup correctly I switched on the radio and ran SDRuno. The two interfaced perfectly and it was good to see the full layout and tools of SDRuno.

Version 1.4.2.1710 is the latest version of SDRuno at the time of writing and is incredibly rich in features. There are a couple of bugs, but the software writers are fully aware of them and are working hard to sort them out. I’m also going to install SDR-CONNECT V1.05 too, along with SDR-CONSOLE...

Anyway, the V.1.4.2 software ran perfectly and it feels good to have SDRuno back on screen, especially this latest version which allows you to have up to 16 virtual receivers running at the same time!! Things have changed significantly since the last time I connected an RSP to a radio and I'm looking forward to exploring and experimenting.

PLEASE NOTE> Once you’ve made these connections, you need to switch the Receive Antenna option on which can be found on Page-2 of the FUNCTION MENU. I’ve actually assigned the RX-ANT function to the VOX button for quick access.   Please note further(!) that whenever you use a splitter (no matter how good it is), you will lose a small amount of signal, so if you wish to avoid this, you can use an SDR Switch instead such as this one from ML&S.

Needless to say, you cannot use this Splitter method if you also want to add an external RX antenna such as a LOTG. You'd have to use the more traditional method of an antenna switch such as the MFJ-1708B, etc.

The final step of the 7300 installation was to configure it to communicate with the SUPERB remote-control app called SDR CONTROL FOR ICOM. I have used this with my 7610 and 705 using my IPad and it works flawlessly!! It’s simply the best RC software out there if you have an IPad.

SDR CONTROL FOR ICOM

So that's it for now. Everything is working very well and it's time to sit back and just enjoy playing radio without all the buggy distractions that the FTX-1 brought. Happy days - thank you Icom!

I'll post more after a couple of months use.

73, Tom, M7MCQ.

 

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DX SPOTTER

The £60 DX SPOTTER from TopBytes is a fabulous little gadget which you can place anywhere in your shack for a constant stream of DX Spots. Alternatively, you can chuck it in your RuckShack and benefit from the spot information while outdoors on a SOTA/POTA outing.

It's a small WiFi-Enabled DX Cluster display powered by any USB power source. You can configure it so that when at home it automatically connects to your WiFi router or to your mobile phone's hotspot when operating outdoors.

It features a bright, clear 256x64 OLED screen providing you with a Real Time Clock, Callsigns, Frequencies, Modes, Info and Comments! A really handy little device which shows band activity at a glance.

You can find out much more by visiting the TopBytes website to read the online Instruction Manual. 

From ML&S website...

Key features

• Dedicated DX cluster display for amateur radio stations
• Built in WiFi - connects to your home or portable network
• Works with standard Telnet based DX clusters (DXSpider, CC Cluster, etc.)
• Pre configured to use the UK hamserve DX cluster by default
• High contrast 256×64 yellow OLED screen with smooth scrolling
• Shows callsign, frequency in MHz and spot comments
• Status line with WiFi signal strength, custom display title and clock
• Web based configuration portal - no special software required
• Band and frequency filtering so you only see the spots you care about
• Adjustable scroll interval and spot history (1–15 recent spots)
• Stores settings in non volatile memory so it remembers everything after power off
• OTA (Over The Air) firmware updates via secure HTTPS
• USB powered - ideal for the shack, field days and portable operation

Typical uses

• Shack monitor - keep DXSpotter on the desk to watch band openings without tying up a PC screen.
• Contest support - track activity on your chosen band and spot new multipliers quickly.
• Portable and field days - run it from a USB power bank and campsite WiFi or a portable router.
• Learning tool - great for newer licensees to see when different HF bands are open and which modes are active.

Simple setup

1. Power the DXSpotter from any 5 V USB supply or power bank.
2. Connect to its built in WiFi access point and open the configuration page.
3. Select your WiFi, enter the password, your callsign and preferred DX cluster.
4. Optionally set band filters, scroll timing and display title.
5. Save and reboot - spots will begin to appear within seconds once band activity is present.

Technical highlights

• WiFi: 2.4 GHz 802.11 b/g/n, WPA/WPA2 security
• Display: 256×64 pixel yellow OLED, wide viewing angle
• Power: 5 V DC via micro USB, typically 1–2 W
• Protocol: Telnet DX cluster over TCP, HTTP web interface, NTP time sync
• Configuration: Built in captive portal and web server

POTA/SOTA RADIOS

I often see posts on social media asking which is the best radio for doing POTA and SOTA work. Of course the very best advice would come from people like Thomas Witherspoon (K4SWL) and Julian White (OH8STN) who are experts in this area or John Harper AE5X who spends a great deal of time outdoors, but while you're here, you might as well see what I think 😂.

The main difference between SOTA and POTA is the fact that you can almost always drive to a POTA location in your car and operate from the vehicle or close to it. Most SOTA ops involve an uphill struggle to a summit, so all your equipment needs to be carried in a rucksack.

SOTA OPERATORS tend to focus sharply on the size and weight of their radio along with the current draw. The current draw matters greatly because it determines the size of the (potentially heavy) battery required to operate it. In addition to the radio and batteries, SOTA guys also have to lug around their antenna, mast, laptop/tablet, phone, food and drinks!

POTA OPERATORS also focus on the size and weight of their equipment, but it's obviously nowhere near as important, since they're (usually) only loading it into their vehicle. 

Personally, I don't bother too much with either SOTA or POTA, but I do spend most of my radio-time in the great outdoors. That can involve me loading my rucksack and going on a hill walk or chucking some gear into the back of my car and driving to an elevated position not too far away. I also like to take my radio gear with me when I go on holiday in the UK.

So what's the best radio? Well as usual, I only talk about radios that I have owned and used - I don't feel that it's right to give opinions on equipment that you've not used personally.

By default, virtually all SOTA radios are QRP, providing 5-20W output and I've tried around half a dozen models...

• ICOM IC-705 £1200
• YAESU FTX-1F £1600
• ELECRAFT KX2/3 £1800
• YAESU FT-891 £600
• XIEGU G90/6100 £390/530
• FX-4CR £550
• QMX PLUS £200
• TR(u)SDR £100

For me, the Icom IC-705 is the reigning king! It provides a stunning array of features for just £1200 and has been leading the way for the last five years! Buy a 705 and you've pretty much got everything you need to enjoy radio at the top of a hillside or at home in the shack. 

You'll get a superb, modern SDR all-mode receiver with a fabulous colour touchscreen, built-in front-facing speaker, a speaker-mic, built-in soundcard, QSO-Recorder, GPS, BlueTooth, Wi-Fi, CW & Phone memories, PSK decoder and HF, VHF, UHF, DSTAR with 10W output. AirBand and general coverage is included. Current drain is reasonable and weight is fair. Probably a little too bulky to take to the top of Everest 😂 but fine for most outings.

If you want to use the 705 at home with an amplifier, the most cost-effective way is to connect a Xiegu XPA125B to it. Not only will it give you 100W for 5W input, but it also gets you a superb built-in ATU with an impedance range of 10:1.

As you will see from the review, the 705 is very well supported by third-party software and hardware, making it even more appealing.

The Yaesu FTX-1F is the new kid on the block and has been in the making for a long time. It came along five years after the 705, costs £400 more and offers fewer features as standard 😲! Although I bought one, I'm not afraid to say that I was quite disappointed with Yaesu's efforts, especially considering that their designers new how high Icom had set the bar. Don't get me wrong - it's a lovely radio, but I was hoping that it would knock the 705 off its lofty perch with a long list of new and exciting features.

Sadly, upon release, the FTX-1F had a long list of bugs instead of new features! And in addition to the bugs, it also lacked GPS, BlueTooth and WiFi. Although you can pay more and add GPS and BlueTooth modules, you cannot add WiFi 😲. Incredible!

On the plus side, the FTX-1 includes the 4M band in the UK and has Dual Receive capability. However, that doesn't mean independent dual-receivers like you'd find on an FTM300, so you can't cross-band. Dual receive only works on VHF/UHF - not HF/HF. Where Icom offer DSTAR, Yaesu offer C4FM.

The FTX-1F is bigger and heavier than the 705 and it draws more current too, so it's unlikely to become a SOTA favourite! For POTA though, it's fine and there's an optional clip-on 100W amplifier with a (rather poor 3:1) built-in ATU.

Needless to say, the Yaesu FanBoys are calling this radio the "705 Slayer" which is just laughable 😂😁😂. If it had matched the 705 feature-list plus the 4M and Dual Receive, I'd agree, but it hasn't and it isn't, so calm down boys 😏. I ended up selling mine and haven't regretted it!

ELECRAFT have offered the KX3 for over a decade and it was the radio to have for SOTA or POTA, but as good as it is, times have moved on and operators are increasingly wanting to benefit from the handy features of the more modern radios. The popularity of the Elecraft has also declined in recent years because they've become more and more difficult to get hold of in Europe. UK Dealers eventually gave up on them and it's little wonder considering the eye-watering prices.

Make no mistake - the KX3 has a stunning receiver and there are many proud and happy owners - especially in America where they are manufactured, but I guess they're getting a little long in the tooth now and are in need of modernisation.

A firm favourite with many POTA operators (and a few SOTA guys too) is the fabulous YAESU FT-891. In a fairly compact form factor, it offers a 100W, All Mode HF/6M radio with a superb receiver and 32-bit DSP for around £600.

This radio has no faults as far as I could find, save the awkward menu system. It's fairly light for a 100W radio at 1.9kg and its slim profile (8x6x2") means that it fits easily inside most 'day bags'. I honestly loved this radio and regret selling it. Of course there's no VHF/UHF or digital modes with it and that's the only downside to it. If you've climbed hundreds of feet to get to a fabulous take-off point, you usually want to maximise your opportunities to make contacts - including VHF/UHF. But if you're happy with HF only, this radio has got to be considered! You can always carry a VHF/UHF HT.

XIEGU offer the G90 for the budget conscious operators out there and it's a cracking bit of kit, offering tremendous value for money! It's a 20W HF transceiver with a superb built-in ATU which is famous for being able to 'tune a wet noodle'. A sharp colour screen with built-in scope and waterfall completes the package.

The G90 hasn't got the best receiver in the world, but it is perfectly adequate when operated outdoors at a good take-off (which is almost certainly where it will be operated). Just remember though - no VHF/UHF.

Additionally, Xiegu offer the 6100 and more recently the 6200, but for me, they don't provide the same value for money and in the case of the 6100, there are way too many birdies! Stick with the wonderful G90 and spend the rest on a great portable antenna.

FX-4CR from BG2FX is an extremely compact HF radio offering a crisp colour screen, scope, waterfall and 20W output! 

With an aluminium body, it is extremely light and can truly be called a pocket radio. The ergonomics are superb and it's just a joy to operate. It even has Bluetooth and can provide wireless digital operation! There's a built-in speaker and microphone and it weighs just 400g. 

 

QMX PLUS from QRP-LABS is a superb 5W transceiver which provides you with 12 bands to work with and although it was originally restricted to CW & DIGITAL modes, it has recently been upgraded (via firmware) to include SSB! It can be ordered as a self-assembly kit or pre-assembled. Personally I went for the kit version and really enjoyed the challenge. It gives you so much more of a connection to a radio when you've built it yourself. If you want a pre-assembled QMX+ you can expect to be on the waiting list for around a year 😮 

One of the very best features of the QMX is that it has POLAR MODULATION, something that (at the time of writing) is only implemented in one other transceiver - the £7000 Flex Aurora. This can effectively make your 5W transmitter perform like a 12Watter!

There's also an even smaller version called the QMX and that too is a very popular SOTA radio. This small, light 5W transceiver is one of the best value radios out there. It's worth noting that the QMX is much more difficult to build than the QMX+. If you ever see either one on the second-hand market, grab it!!

 

 

TR(u)SDR from DL2MAN is the one to go for if you have a very limited budget. It costs around £100 and is an amazing little radio for this money. It is feature-rich, super light and can even be ordered as a kit if you wish to save more money. It is a 5-Band radio and includes an informative OLED screen, intuitive operation, robust design, built-in diagnostic tools, CW Decoder, speaker and microphone! You can buy Hi and Lo Band versions. Just an amazing performer for its size and cost.

So there you have it! Sure, there others out there, but none that I have personally fancied buying. The only one that I was considering was the LAB-599 from Russia - that was until they decided to invade their neighbour, leading to the deaths of 100's of thousands of people. Sorry, I know you shouldn't bring this sort of stuff into a hobby, but it's just too big and too awful to ignore.

The other option of course is to go for a discontinued radio (secondhand) such as the Yaesu FT818 and that's not a bad option, but personally I'd rather save up for a few extra months and get the radio that I really desire instead of making do with some old tech which might have had a hard life already.

I hope this post has been of some use to people who are considering entering the world of outdoor radio ops. It's a starting point at least. If you have any comments, please leave them below.

Thanks for visiting!

73, Tom, M7MCQ.

DRONE : DJI MINI 4 PRO

Amateur Radio often takes me outdoors to some beautiful areas in search of a great take-off for my QRP transmissions. When I find somewhere, I often sit there thinking how good it would be to be able to record it with a short video and even benefit from a birds-eye view of the place.

And so I began to look at the idea of purchasing a drone. I’ve been considering this for quite some time to be honest, but my forced retirement and subsequent loss of income has held me back. I could, of course, have bought a cheap and cheerful device, but I know from a lifetime of buying tech that I wouldn’t have been happy.

Anyway, to cut a long story short, one of my mates bought a £900 drone with extras and almost immediately decided he wanted the bigger model in the range, so he had this new, unused one to dispose of. Thankfully, he offered it to me for a great price and so here we are!

The day before I picked up the package from my friend’s house, I obtained an OPERATOR-ID and a FLYER-ID online. The OID is simply a matter of paying £12 but the FID involves learning the CAA Drone and Model Aircraft Code and taking a very simple 40 question exam - weirdly at no cost.

In the UK, if your drone weighs less than 250g, you only need an Operator-ID, which is crazy! IMHO the Flyer-ID should be compulsory, since it does actually teach you something about flying a drone responsibly, whereas the OID teaches you nothing at all. Typical bureaucracy!😠

Another daft rule is that Public Liability Insurance is not a compulsory requirement for drones under 250g. Needless to say, I wanted to be insured  and so membership of FPV-UK got me £5M worth of cover, plus some other benefits. 

The drone in question is the DJI MINI 4 PRO FLY MORE. The “fly more“ means that it comes with extra batteries and a triple charger, allowing you to have approximately 90 minutes flying time - more on that later. In the box you get the drone, the controller, the batteries, a USB lead and some spare propeller blades. There’s also a little screwdriver included but it doesn’t look to be the best, so I’ll probably replace it with an alternative - the last thing I want to do is mess up the heads of those teeny tiny prop screws!

The drone was absolutely unused and as you’d find it in the shops. It came with its own carry bag which is a high quality item but (in my opinion) a tad too too small. Thankfully, I have a nice little Peli-1200 which turned out to be the ideal case, offering storage with protection from knocks and rain (not to mention security).

The Mini 4 Pro comes with a choice of two Controllers - one uses your mobile phone to act as a screen and the other has its own built-in screen. Thankfully, I have the latter, which is called the RC2 - it’s infinitely more useful. It also provides upgraded antennas (2 transmit, 4 receive) along with a bright 5.5” touchscreen.

Since my drone was secondhand, my first job was to get it registered and bound to my DJI Account and once that was done, the learning process could begin.

Both the drone and the controller have memory card slots, so I purchased a couple of MicroSD cards from DJI’s recommended list. I wanted a 256Gb for the drone because obviously this is where the movies and photos are stored. The RC2 Controller allows you to record everything that you see onscreen as you fly, so I figured I might as well install another 256Gb card in there too, so that if something happened to my drone’s card, I’ve always got a spare one with me. I should point out that the RC2 controller has its own inbuilt 32Gb storage and doesn’t necessarily need a separate memory card.

I was really quite nervous about my very first flight, so much so that I spent a long time watching training videos on YouTube, to avoid the common mistakes which befall many rookie pilots. I also took advantage of things like DJI’s Virtual Flying App which allows you (if nothing else) to get used to the controls.

My first ‘real’ flight was little more than a vertical take-off from the lawn to a grand height of 30 feet. I then immediately landed it - just to make sure I could! 😂

Once I felt safe that nothing bad was going to happen, I extended my aerial adventures bit by bit, including testing the Return To Home feature. My confidence built up slowly, but I remain cautious and avoid being too adventurous until I’ve gained some real experience and the controls become absolutely second nature. 

So, let’s look at the MINI 4 PRO.  It was launched just a couple of years ago and introduced some fantastic new features to the sub-250g arena including…

• Omni-Directional Collision Avoidance
• Advanced Return To Home System
• Enhanced Camera System
• Latest O4 Transmission System
• New Rotating Gimbal for Vertical Shooting
• 2590mAh Battery - up to 34 mins flight time
• 4K Video at 100fps - Slow Motion
• 4K Video at 60fps
• Night Shots Video
• Maximum Speed of 36mph
• 48MP 1/1.3” CMOS Sensor
• D-LOG M  & HLG profiles
• Active Track 360
• Waypoint Flight
• Cruise Control

Below is my very first (and slightly boring) video which I made around our holiday-park. Since then, the weather has been very poor - especially the winds, which make it very difficult to fly.

First drone video 😂😁😂

The MINI PRO 4 is aimed squarely at rank amateurs like me - people who want the convenience of a light, compact drone with plenty of flying aids for casual and occasional use on sunny, calm days. If you want to work in less than ideal weather conditions and have a more serious interest in drone flying, you need something bigger, perhaps from the Mavic range. Having said that, many 'professionals' have given the Mini4Pro high praise.

________________________

PROS

Beginner-friendly: The drone is easy to fly, even for those with no prior experience, and features user-friendly controls. 

Safety features: It has omnidirectional obstacle avoidance and is designed to be safe for both beginners and experienced pilots. 

High-quality video: The 1/1.3-inch sensor captures high-quality 4K video and great stills in various conditions. 

Lightweight and compact: At under 250g, it is often exempt from complex registration and exams in many countries. 

Improved tracking: ActiveTrack mode is refined, and a new jog wheel offers more control when following a subject. 

Good value: With recent price reductions, it is now considered one of the best all-around value drones available. 

CONS

Wind performance: 

Its lightweight design can make it unstable in strong winds compared to larger drones. 

Price: The initial cost was a barrier for some, though this has improved with a recent price drop. 

Image quality: Some users report that higher-megapixel modes can produce noisy results, and a 12MP mode may be cleaner. 

Obstacle avoidance limitations: While generally effective, some users have found it can struggle in specific situations, like with close-up tracking, and may not always prevent collisions.

SPECS

• Takeoff Weight: < 249 g. Standard aircraft weight (including the Intelligent Flight Battery, propellers, and a microSD card). The actual product weight may vary due to differences in batch materials and external factors. Registration is not required in some countries and regions. Always check local laws and regulations before use. With the Intelligent Flight Battery Plus*, the aircraft will weigh more than 249 g. Always check and strictly abide by local laws and regulations before flying. The Intelligent Flight Battery Plus is not sold in Europe.
   
• Dimensions: Folded (without propellers): 148×94×64 mm (L×W×H)
   
• Unfolded (with propellers): 298×373×101 mm (L×W×H)
   
• Max Ascent Speed: 5 m/s (S Mode), 5 m/s (N Mode), 3 m/s (C Mode)
   
• Max Descent Speed: 5 m/s (S Mode), 5 m/s (N Mode), 3 m/s (C Mode)
   
• Max Horizontal Speed (at sea level, no wind): 16 m/s (S Mode), 12 m/s (N Mode), 12 m/s (C Mode). The max horizontal speed is subject to dynamic local restrictions. Always abide by local laws and regulations when flying.  
   
• Operating Temperature: -10° to 40° C (14° to 104° F)
   
• Image Sensor: 1/1.3-inch CMOS, Effective Pixels: 48 MP
   
• Lens: FOV: 82.1°
   
• Format Equivalent: 24 mm
   
• Aperture: f/1.7
   
• Focus: 1 m to ∞
   
• ISO Range Photo: 12 MP 100-6400; 48 MP 100-3200
   
• Shutter Speed: 12MP Photo: 1/16000-2 s (2.5-8 s for simulated long exposure); 48MP Photo: 1/8000-2 s
   
• Max Image Size: 8064×6048
   
• Still Photography Modes: Single Shot: 12 MP and 48 MP
   
• Burst Shooting: 12 MP, 3/5/7 frames, 48 MP, 3 frames
   
• Automatic Exposure Bracketing (AEB): 12 MP, 3/5/7 frames at 0.7 EV step; 48 MP, 3 frames at 0.7 EV step
   
• Timed: 12 MP, 2/3/5/7/10/15/20/30/60 s; 48 MP, 5/7/10/15/20/30/60 s
   
• Photo Format: JPEG/DNG (RAW)
   
• Sensing Type: Omnidirectional binocular vision system, supplemented with a 3D infrared sensor at the bottom of the aircraft.